LG WM1377HW Drain Pump Motor – What Part Fixes This Problem?
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Understanding the Problem
What the pump motor does: The drain (pump) motor forces water out of the tub and into the house drain during drain and spin cycles. If it fails, the washer won't drain, will show an OE/CE/UE error, may make grinding/humming sounds, or leak. Step-by-step diagnostics and repair (practical how-to): 1) Safety first: Unplug the washer and shut off the hot/cold water supplies. Place towels and a shallow drain pan in front of the washer to catch residual water. 2) Confirm symptom: Run a drain/spin test (or a quick wash cycle) and watch/listen. If the washer fills and won't drain, if you hear a humming/noisy motor, or if the OE error appears, suspect the drain pump. 3) Remove standing water: Open the small access panel (if equipped) or carefully pull the drain hose from the standpipe and drain into a bucket. If no access, you may need to tilt the washer slightly or use the emergency drain hose. 4) Access the pump: On the WM1377HW access the pump from the front lower panel. Remove the lower front access panel (usually 4–6 screws), then remove the base plate if present. Some models require removing the entire front door seal clamp to drop the tub; consult your service manual if unsure. 5) Visual inspection: Inspect the pump and hoses for clogs (coins, lint, plastic). Check the pump impeller by hand for free movement. Look for leaks at hose clamps or cracked pump housing. 6) Electrical test: Unplug wiring harness to the pump. With a multimeter set to ohms, measure continuity across the pump motor terminals. Typical small motors show low resistance (tens to a few hundred ohms). Infinite/open = motor windings open => bad pump. Short to ground indicates failure as well. 7) Mechanical test (if safe and experienced): With the pump removed from the washer, you can apply brief mains power to the pump to confirm it runs — only if you are experienced, taking every safety precaution (isolate wiring, secure pump, avoid water). Prefer using the washer’s diagnostic mode to command the pump instead. 8) Replace the pump (how to fix): a) Disconnect power and water. b) Remove front lower access panel and locate pump (bottom front of washer). c) Loosen and remove the hose clamps on inlet/outlet hoses and remove hoses from the pump (have towels/bucket ready). d) Unplug the pump wiring harness and remove mounting screws/clips holding the pump to the washer. e) Remove the old pump and install the new unit in the reverse order. Ensure the pump impeller faces the correct direction, hoses are fully seated, and clamp tightly. f) Reassemble panels and run a drain/spin test to confirm operation and check for leaks. 9) Final checks: Verify the washer completes drain and spin, listen for smooth pump operation, and inspect for any leaks during and after the test cycle. Safety note: Always unplug the washer before servicing. If you must test with live voltage, isolate the pump, secure it out of any water, and only do so if you are comfortable and experienced with mains electricity. If in doubt, hire a qualified appliance technician.
Common Symptoms
Washer won't drain; OE/CE error codes; humming or grinding from front bottom of washer; water remains in drum after cycle; leaking at pump area.
Common Causes
- Clogged inlet/outlet hoses or foreign object jammed in impeller
- Pump motor electrical failure (open windings or short to ground)
- Cracked pump housing or failed seals causing leak or loss of suction
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
These are the most common replacement parts that fix this problem. When you're ready to order, click below to find the right part at ProsourceParts.com — just search by your appliance model number for a guaranteed fit.
Helpful Repair Tip
If the washer displays OE (drain) error but the pump hums, remove the hose and check for foreign objects in the pump impeller — many failures are caused by blockages, not electrical faults.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if the pump motor is bad or just clogged?
Start by removing the drain hose and checking for easy blockages. Then inspect the pump impeller for debris and try to spin it by hand — it should turn freely. If the pump hums but doesn't spin, or a multimeter shows no continuity across the motor terminals (open circuit) or a short to ground, the motor is bad and needs replacement.
Can I replace the pump motor myself and how long will it take?
Yes — a homeowner with basic tools can usually replace the pump in 30–90 minutes depending on experience. Turn off power and water, remove the lower front panel, drain residual water, disconnect hoses and wiring, swap the pump, and reassemble. If you’re uncomfortable working with electricity or handling water lines, hire a technician.
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