LG DLEX3370W Dryer Heating Element, Thermostat & Belt Kit — What This Fixes and How to Replace It
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Understanding the Problem
This kit (heating element + thermal/temperature thermostats + belt) addresses the most common causes of an LG DLEX3370W that either doesn't heat, overheats, or has a broken belt so the drum won't turn. Below are practical diagnostic steps and step-by-step repair instructions. 1) Confirm the symptom and basic checks a. Symptom: Dryer tumbles but does not heat, or it trips the breaker, or it overheats and shuts off, or the drum won't turn because the belt is broken. Check the outlet voltage first: electric dryers need two 120V legs (240V total). If you have a gas dryer, skip the heating element steps. Ensure the dryer is unplugged before proceeding. 2) Quick electrical tests (tools: multimeter, non-contact voltage tester) a. Check for 240V at the outlet with a voltmeter. No voltage = electrical supply issue. b. With dryer unplugged, remove the back/access panel and check continuity across the heating element — it should show continuity (a low resistance, typically a few ohms to a few tens of ohms depending on element). An open (OL) reading indicates a failed element. c. Check the thermal fuse for continuity. A blown thermal fuse is a very common cause of no heat and will read open. d. Test thermostats (high-limit and operating/ cycling thermostat) for continuity at room temperature. They should show continuity; an open thermostat indicates failure. 3) Inspect mechanical parts a. Inspect the drum belt: if the belt is snapped or the drum slips when you try to turn it by hand, replace the belt. b. Check drum rollers, idler pulley, and motor for wear — a seized roller or jammed idler can put extra strain on the belt. c. Inspect the element for visible breaks, burn spots, or insulation damage. 4) Replacement steps — heating element, thermostats, thermal fuse and belt (general steps) Note: These are generic steps for most LG front-load electric dryers including model DLEX3370W. Consult your model diagram for exact screw locations. a. Safety first: Unplug the dryer and turn off power at the panel. If you must work near live circuits (which you shouldn't), use a non-contact voltage tester to confirm power is off. b. Access the components: - Pull the dryer away from the wall. Remove the lint filter and the filter housing screws if required. - Remove the top panel (usually two screws at the back or clips). Then, remove front or rear access panel depending on the part location. The heating element on many LG models is accessed via the rear access panel. c. Remove the old heating element assembly: - Disconnect wires from the element terminals and note their positions (take a phone photo). - Remove mounting screws and pull out the element housing carefully. If the element is broken inside, vacuum dust away before reassembly. d. Replace thermostats and thermal fuse: - Locate the high-limit thermostat(s) and thermal fuse on the blower housing or element housing. - Disconnect their connectors and remove mounting screws/clips. Install the new parts in the same orientation and reconnect wires. e. Replace the belt: - Release tension from the idler pulley and remove the old belt from the motor pulley and drum. - Loop the new belt around the drum (ribbed side to drum) and slip it around the motor pulley and under the idler pulley. Re-tension idler so belt is snug. - Rotate drum by hand to ensure smooth operation and correct alignment. f. Reassemble and test: - Reinstall access panels and top panel. Plug dryer back in and run a short, empty cycle on high heat to verify heating and proper tumbling. Monitor for unusual noises or smell of burning (brief new-part smell is normal; persistent burning indicates an issue). 5) When to replace which part first - If the element tests open: replace the heating element assembly. - If the thermal fuse is open: replace the thermal fuse (always check why it blew — clean lint path, blocked vent, or failed thermostats). - If thermostats are open or the dryer overheats: replace the cycling thermostat and high-limit thermostat. - If the belt is broken or worn: replace the belt and inspect rollers/shaft for wear. Safety note: Always disconnect power before opening the dryer. Thermal fuses and thermostats are safety devices — if one failed, correct the root cause (vent blockage or failed element) before simply replacing them. If you are not comfortable with electrical testing and disassembly, hire a qualified technician.
Common Symptoms
Dryer tumbles but does not heat; dryer runs then shuts off or overheats; dryer trips breaker; drum won't turn because belt is broken; burning smell or loud squeal while running.
Common Causes
- Failed heating element (open coil or short to ground)
- Blown thermal fuse or open high-limit thermostat
- Faulty cycling/operating thermostat
- Broken or worn drum belt (or seized drum rollers/idler)
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
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Helpful Repair Tip
Use a multimeter: the heating element should show low resistance (not infinite). A thermal fuse or thermostat that reads open (infinite) at room temperature is bad and needs replacing.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know whether to replace the heating element or the thermal fuse?
Test each with a multimeter. With power disconnected, the heating element should show continuity (low ohms). The thermal fuse should show continuity at room temperature; if the fuse is open (infinite resistance) it's blown and must be replaced. If the element is open, replace the element. If the fuse is blown, replace the fuse but also find the root cause (vent restriction, failed element or overheating) before running the dryer again.
Is the heating element repair something I can do myself and how long does it take?
If you are comfortable unplugging the dryer, using basic hand tools, and performing simple electrical continuity checks with a multimeter, you can replace the heating element, thermostats and belt yourself. Typical time: 45–90 minutes for an experienced DIYer. Always unplug the dryer first, document wire positions with photos, and replace any safety parts (thermal fuse, high-limit thermostat) that test open. If unsure, hire a technician.
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