For educational purposes only. Always consult a certified technician when unsure.

Kenmore Elite Oasis Washer Hub Replacement – How to Diagnose & Replace the Hub

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Understanding the Problem

What the hub is and why it fails: The washer “hub” can mean two things on a Kenmore Elite Oasis top-load washer: the upper agitator hub/cam (the plastic spline inside the agitator) or the lower tub/basket-to-gearcase hub (the coupling that transfers drive from the gearcase to the tub). Over time the plastic splines, cams, or metal hub can wear or strip, causing the agitator to slip, the basket to spin freely, grinding noises, or the washer to not agitate or spin properly. Step-by-step diagnostic & replacement (start simple and escalate if needed): 1) Identify exact model and part needed - Locate the washer model number (inside the washer cabinet under the lid or on the back). Order parts that match that model. Different Oasis models use different hub assemblies. 2) Tools & prep - Tools: socket set (8mm, 10mm, 1/2"), hex sockets, Torx if needed, adjustable wrench, pliers, rubber mallet, flat screwdriver, needle-nose, shop towels, bucket, bearing puller/seal driver (if doing tub hub), WD-40 or penetrating oil. - Safety: unplug washer and shut off water. Work on a dry floor and support the tub if you remove it. 3) Quick diagnosis (agitator hub vs tub/basket hub) - Remove the agitator cap (pop or pry out). Remove the agitator bolt (usually a large hex bolt under the cap). Try to lift the upper agitator — if the upper agitator lifts off but the lower one does not engage or there is heavy wear inside, the agitator hub/cam is likely bad. - If the entire basket spins freely while the motor runs (or you hear grinding and basket wobble), the tub/basket-to-gearcase hub (coupling) or gearcase may be the problem. - Check for visible stripped plastic splines in the agitator and excessive play at the top of the basket. 4) Replacing the upper agitator hub/cam (common, easier job) - Remove the agitator cap, remove the central bolt and washer, pull the upper agitator straight up (may need a pry with a flat screwdriver or a block & hammer to shock it free). - If your washer has a two-piece agitator, remove the lower part if necessary to access the cam/hub. - Remove old agitator cam/hub (usually a plastic part pressed into the bottom of the agitator or into the transmission post). Replace with new cam/hub per kit instructions (example common kit: Agitator Cam Kit 285753 used on many Whirlpool/Kenmore top-loads — verify for your model). - Reinstall the agitator, tighten the bolt snugly (manufacturer torque varies; tighten until secure), reinstall cap. Run a short cycle to verify agitation and no slipping. 5) Replacing the tub/basket hub / coupling (more involved) - This requires removing the cabinet/top/back, disconnecting hoses/wiring, draining water, removing the agitator and inner tub, and removing the drive pulley and retaining hardware. - Support and remove the outer tub or lift the inner basket off the gearcase. Inspect the tub-to-gearcase hub/coupling — if it is cracked, sheared, or the splines are stripped, it needs replacement. - Many hub replacements require removing rivets or bolts and may require special hub kits that include new seals/bearings. Press or drive out the old hub; install the new hub with correct bearings and seals. Use a seal driver or appropriate-sized socket to seat seals without damage. - Reassemble in reverse order, refill and test on a spin/agitate cycle. Check for leaks and unusual noises. 6) Test & final checks - Run a few test cycles empty with towels to confirm no slipping, no leaks, and that agitation/spin are normal. - Verify there is no excessive play in the basket and no grinding noises. Safety note: always disconnect power and water before beginning work. If you must remove the outer tub or press bearings, consider a shop or a traction jack—these steps can be heavy and require tools/technique to avoid injury or damage.

Common Symptoms

Agitator slips or doesn't agitate, basket spins but clothes not being tumbled, grinding or wobbling during spin, visible shredded plastic inside the agitator, excessive play in the inner tub.

Common Causes

  • Plastic splines/wear in the upper agitator cam (agitator hub) that strip with use
  • Worn or sheared tub-to-gearcase hub/coupling transferring drive to the basket
  • Corrosion, water intrusion and bearing/seal failure that damages the hub splines

Popular Parts That Fix This Problem

These are the most common replacement parts that fix this problem. When you're ready to order, click below to find the right part at ProsourceParts.com — just search by your appliance model number for a guaranteed fit.

285753 (common Whirlpool/Kenmore kit — verify with your model number)Agitator cam / agitator hub (upper)
Verify model-specific part — often included with agitator kit or available as OEM bolt for your modeAgitator bolt / washer (retainer)
Model-specific — varies by Kenmore Elite Oasis model. Order by washer model number; hub kits often iTub / basket-to-gearcase hub (coupling) & seal/bearing kit
Pro tip incoming! 🧠

Helpful Repair Tip

Before ordering parts, remove the agitator cap and inspect the plastic cam/splines visually — if you see shredded plastic or missing splines the agitator cam/hub is the culprit. Also wiggle the basket side-to-side: excessive play at the top indicates a tub/basket hub or bearing failure.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if I need the agitator hub/cam or the tub/basket hub?

If the upper agitator pulls off and you see shredded plastic splines or the upper agitator spins but the agitator won't agitate, it's usually the agitator cam/hub. If the entire inner tub wobbles, spins freely, makes grinding noises, or there's excessive vertical/side play in the basket, the tub/basket-to-gearcase hub (or bearings/gearcase) is likely at fault. Visual inspection after removing the agitator gives a clear answer.

Can I replace the hub myself and how long will it take?

Yes for the upper agitator cam/hub — this is a relatively simple DIY job (30–90 minutes). Replacing the tub/basket hub is more advanced (2–4+ hours), may require special tools (bearing puller/seal driver) and heavy lifting; if you haven't done this before or the gearcase needs service, consider a professional to avoid damaging the tub or gearcase.

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