Kenmore Elite 10657789703 Ice Maker Not Working – What Part Fixes This?
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Understanding the Problem
This guide covers the ice maker system in the Kenmore Elite refrigerator model 10657789703. Ice maker problems usually fall into three buckets: no water (no fill), no eject (ice stays in mold), or overfilling/leaking. Use the steps below to narrow the cause and fix the unit. 1) Safety first - Unplug the refrigerator or shut off the dedicated circuit before doing internal work. Turn off water supply to the fridge if you'll remove or test the fill valve or water lines. 2) Quick visual checks (5–10 minutes) - Open the freezer and confirm the ice maker's plastic shutoff arm (if present) is down/engaged. If it's up, the ice maker is turned off. - Look for ice jams in the mold or at the ejector blades. Clear any stuck ice. - Inspect the water supply tubing to the fridge for kinks, and check the water filter (if equipped). A clogged filter or kinked line reduces fill. 3) Does the ice maker get power and enter a harvest/fill cycle? - Reconnect power. Put a small piece of metal (or use your finger if safe) on the ice maker motor gear and try to manually advance the ejector (many units have a test/advance tab). If the motor turns freely or you can advance the cam, that tells you the motor mechanism is not seized. - Listen for the fill valve when the ice maker is commanded to fill – you should hear a brief click and see the valve open for ~4–10 seconds. 4) Diagnostic sequence to isolate the fault - If the ice maker never attempts a harvest/fill cycle: check freezer temperature (should be 0 to 5°F / -18 to -15°C for proper ice production). If freezer is warm, address cooling issues before troubleshooting ice maker. - If ice maker cycles but does not fill: check the water inlet valve. With the fridge powered, run the ice maker through a fill step (or manually actuate) and check for valve click and water flow at the fill tube. If valve clicks but no water, check water line pressure and inlet screen for debris. If no click, test valve coil for continuity. - If ice maker fills but does not eject cubes: check ice maker motor and module; test for continuity on the motor and test voltage at the motor leads during a harvest cycle. Check the heater (if model uses a heater to release cubes) and the thermostat/thermistor if present. - If ice maker overfills or floods: suspect a faulty water inlet valve (stuck open) or a misaligned/blocked fill tube causing siphoning. Replace inlet valve if it doesn't shut off under command. 5) Step‑by‑step checks with tools (multimeter, screwdriver, bucket) - Check freezer temp: ideal 0°F (-18°C). - Remove the ice maker access cover. Inspect wiring connectors for corrosion or burn marks. - Manually advance the ice maker to start a cycle (follow manufacturer trim: typically rotate the motor gear clockwise until it steps). Observe whether the heater (if equipped) energizes and whether the motor runs. - Test motor/thermostat continuity with a multimeter per the schematic on the unit; replace the ice maker module if motor is dead or the electronics fail. - Test the water inlet valve coils: disconnect power, remove valve, measure coil resistance (typically 500–1500 ohms depending on design). If open/infinitely high, coil is bad. If coil has resistance but valve doesn’t open during cycle, test for voltage at the valve when commanded — if voltage present but valve doesn’t open, replace valve. 6) Common repairs and replacement steps (practical how‑to) - Replace the water filter: if filter is old or clogged, replace first (simple twist or cartridge swap per model). - Replace water inlet valve: shut off water, disconnect supply line, remove mounting screws, unplug electrical connector, replace with exact OEM valve. Turn water on and check for leaks. - Replace ice maker assembly: unplug fridge, remove access cover and mounting screws, disconnect harness and water fill tube (if attached), swap in the replacement unit, reconnect fill tube and harness, secure and power up. Cycle test to confirm fill and harvest. - Clear frozen fill tube: if fill tube frozen, thaw with warm (not boiling) water directed at the tube or allow several hours with fridge unplugged and doors open. Insulate fill tube if re‑freezing is recurrent. 7) Final verification - After replacing parts or clearing jams, run the ice maker through a test cycle and wait for 1–3 cycles (about 2–6 hours total depending on freezer temp) to confirm normal operation. Safety note: Always disconnect power before servicing electrical parts. When testing live circuits, use insulated tools and exercise caution. If you're not comfortable with electrical testing or working on water lines, call a qualified appliance technician.
Common Symptoms
No ice production, ice maker not filling, constant filling/overflow, partial fills (small cubes), ice stuck in mold, ice maker not cycling.
Common Causes
- Faulty water inlet valve (no fill, constant fill or leaking)
- Clogged water filter or low water pressure (reduced or no fill)
- Ice jam or mechanical blockage in the ice maker (no ejection)
- Failed ice maker motor/module or thermostat/thermistor (no cycle or no harvest)
- Frozen or kinked fill tube (no water)
- Freezer temperature too warm (prevents ice production)
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
These are the most common replacement parts that fix this problem. When you're ready to order, click below to find the right part at ProsourceParts.com — just search by your appliance model number for a guaranteed fit.
Helpful Repair Tip
Listen for a single click from the water valve during the fill step. If you hear the click but no water, the inlet valve or water supply (filter/line) is the usual culprit.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I reset the ice maker on this Kenmore model?
Many Kenmore/Whirlpool ice makers reset by turning the plastic shutoff arm up for 10 seconds and then back down, or by removing power for 30–60 seconds (unplug or switch off circuit). Some units have a test/advance button — consult your model's tech sheet. After a reset, allow the ice maker one full cycle (a few hours) to resume normal operation.
How long does replacing the ice maker or inlet valve take and can I do it myself?
A competent DIYer with basic tools can usually replace an inlet valve in 30–60 minutes and an ice maker assembly in 30–90 minutes. Key steps are cutting water, unplugging power, disconnecting supply line, and swapping the part. If you're uncomfortable with water connections or electrical testing, call a qualified appliance technician.
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