Kenmore Elite 106.57789703 Ice Maker Not Making Ice – What to Check and How to Fix It
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Understanding the Problem
Brief explanation: Many Kenmore Elite refrigerators (model 106.57789703) use a factory-installed ice maker assembly that can fail in a handful of common ways: no ice production, small or hollow cubes, slow fill, or continuous water flow into the ice bin. These problems are usually caused by water supply issues, a failed water inlet valve, a bad ice maker motor/module, a bad fill tube/thermostat (or heater), or a clogged/expired water filter. Diagnostic & repair steps (numbered): 1. Quick visual & basic checks: a. Make sure the fridge and freezer are powered on and at correct temperatures (freezer around 0°F / -18°C). Ice makers often stop if freezer is too warm. b. Verify the water supply to the refrigerator is turned on. Check any shut-off valve under the sink or behind the fridge. c. Replace or bypass the water filter if it hasn't been changed recently — a clogged filter will reduce or stop flow. 2. Try a manual test cycle: a. Locate the ice maker test/reset button (usually on the ice maker module or front of the unit). Press and hold per the service manual (usually 5–10 seconds) to start a harvest/fill cycle. If your model lacks a visible button, consult the tech sheet behind the fridge to run diagnostics. b. Listen for a click (water valve) and watch for a short fill (you may need to place a towel to catch water). If you hear the valve but no water, suspect the water valve or frozen/blocked fill tube. 3. Check for frozen/blocked water fill tube: a. Inspect the fill tube (the small plastic tube that directs water into the mold). If it’s frozen, warm it with a hair dryer on low (do NOT use open flame). If it thaws and then fills normally, the freezer temperature or infrequent use may be causing freeze-ups.\n4. Test the water inlet valve: a. Unplug the refrigerator and turn off the water. Remove the kickplate to access the valve at the rear bottom. Use a multimeter to check coil continuity. If coils are open, replace the valve. b. With the fridge powered and the valve exposed, have a helper activate the ice maker fill cycle and check for 120VAC at the valve terminals when it should fill. If voltage is present but valve doesn’t open, replace the valve. 5. Test the ice maker module/motor/thermostat: a. With the ice maker removed, check for continuity on the motor/thermostat assembly per service specs. If the motor is dead or the thermostat (or thermistor) shows open when cold, replace the ice maker assembly. b. If the harvest cycle runs but cubes don’t eject, the module/harvester motor or the heater (if equipped) may be bad. 6. Replace faulty parts (general): a. If the water valve fails — replace it and check water pressure; low household pressure can also cause slow fills. b. If the ice maker module or full ice maker assembly fails — replace the entire ice maker assembly for reliability on many Kenmore/Whirlpool models. c. If the fill tube repeatedly freezes consider adding a fill-tube heater (if available) or lowering freezer temperature slightly; ensure proper airflow and no obstruction around the evaporator. 7. Post-repair testing: a. Restore water and power, place the ice bin in position, and run a manual test cycle. Expect the first batch to take up to 12–24 hours (first fill is typically fast, but freezing the first batch takes normal cube freeze time). How to fix (step-by-step replacement of the ice maker assembly): 1. Safety first: unplug the refrigerator and shut off the water supply at the shut-off valve. Remove food from the freezer if needed. 2. Access the ice maker: open the freezer and remove the ice bucket and any trim or cover over the ice maker. On many models you’ll need to remove a few screws to drop the ice maker down. 3. Disconnect wiring: note connector orientation or take a photo. Disconnect the wire harness and the water tube from the ice maker (some models use a push-fit that you depress to remove). 4. Remove the mounting screws and carefully slide the old ice maker out. 5. Install the new ice maker: mount it in place, secure screws, reconnect the wire harness and water connection. Make sure the fill tube seats properly. 6. Restore water and power: turn the water back on and plug in the refrigerator. Check for leaks at the water connection. 7. Run a test cycle/reset: use the test button or diagnostic mode to force a fill. Confirm the valve opens and water fills the mold. Place the ice bin back and allow normal freeze time. Safety note: Always unplug the refrigerator and shut off water before disconnecting electrical connectors or water lines. Use a multimeter only if you are comfortable and experienced with electrical measurements. If you are unsure, hire a qualified appliance technician.
Common Symptoms
No ice production, underfilled or misshapen cubes, ice maker clacking but not filling, continuous water in ice bin, or leaking at the water connection.
Common Causes
- Clogged or old water filter / restricted water supply
- Failed water inlet valve (won't open when commanded)
- Faulty ice maker module/motor or thermostat (stops cycling)
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Helpful Repair Tip
Start by running a manual test/reset cycle and listening for the water valve click. If you hear the click but no water, the inlet valve or water supply (or frozen fill tube) is the likely culprit; if no sound and the motor doesn’t move, the ice maker module is likely bad.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I reset the ice maker on my Kenmore Elite 106.57789703?
Most models have a test/reset button on the ice maker module; press and hold it for about 5–10 seconds to start a harvest/fill cycle. If you don't see a button, unplug the refrigerator for 1–2 minutes, plug it back in, and run the diagnostic cycle from the tech sheet (usually located behind the refrigerator panel).
Can I replace just the ice maker motor/module or do I need the whole assembly?
Depending on the exact assembly, some models allow replacing just the module or motor, but many technicians recommend replacing the entire ice maker assembly because the module and mold are integrated and a full assembly ensures reliable operation. Check parts availability and price — sometimes the full assembly is similarly priced and easier to install.
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