Kenmore Dryer 110.72332512 — Troubleshooting & Parts Guide
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Understanding the Problem
This guide covers the most common problems owners see with Kenmore dryer model 110.72332512 — won't start, no heat or intermittent heat, long dry times, loud noises, drum not turning. Below are practical diagnostic and repair steps you can follow at home. Tools you'll typically need: Phillips and flat screwdrivers, 1/4" and 5/16" nut drivers, multimeter, needle-nose pliers, work gloves, and a camera or phone to record wiring for reassembly. 1) Preliminary checks (5–10 minutes) a. Confirm whether your dryer is electric or gas: look at the back — 240V cord or thick 4‑prong plug means electric; a flexible metal or rubber gas line and no 240V plug means gas. Also check the model tag inside the door or on the back panel. b. Verify power: for electric dryers, check the household breaker(s) and that the cord is fully seated; for gas dryers, confirm the gas valve is on. c. Check the lint screen, exhaust vent and exterior vent hood. Restricted venting causes long dry times and trips thermal protection. 2) If the dryer won't start or won't tumble a. Test the door switch: press the door switch manually; if the dryer doesn't start when the switch is clicked, remove the switch and check continuity with a multimeter. Replace if open when pressed. b. Check the start switch and the timer/console: use multimeter to test for continuity when activated. c. Inspect the drive belt and motor: open the cabinet per model instructions. If belt is broken, drum will not turn but motor may attempt to run (you may hear humming). If motor hums but doesn't run, test motor windings for continuity and check for obstructions on the blower or drum. Replace belt or motor as needed. 3) If the dryer runs but doesn't heat or takes very long a. Confirm venting is clear — remove the vent hose and run a short cycle; if drying improves, clean the vent run and exterior hood. b. Check the thermal fuse: this one‑time fuse blows when the dryer overheats and will cut power to the heating circuit or the entire dryer. With power disconnected, remove the fuse and test for continuity — no continuity means replace the thermal fuse. c. For electric dryers: test the heating element for continuity; check cycling thermostat, high-limit thermostat, and fuses/thermostats in the heating circuit. Replace faulty components. d. For gas dryers: observe ignition sequence — when starting, you should hear the gas valve and see the igniter glow or spark. If motor runs but no ignition, test the igniter for continuity and the gas valve coils for resistance. Replace igniter or gas valve coils if defective. 4) If the dryer overheats or trips breaker a. Overheating is commonly caused by blocked venting, failed thermostats, or a shorted heating element. Clean venting and lint paths first. b. Test thermostats and element for continuity and replace any that are open or out of specification. c. If a breaker trips (electric), the heating element may be shorted to ground — visually inspect the element for breaks and shorts; test element to chassis for continuity to ground. 5) If the dryer is noisy or squeaks a. Inspect drum rollers, idler pulley, and motor bearings. Remove the front panel and spin the drum by hand — feel for roughness or wobble. b. Replace worn rollers, bearings, and idler. Lubricate only where specified by manufacturer; most roller assemblies are replaced rather than lubricated. 6) Replacement basics (common tasks) a. Thermal fuse: disconnect power, unplug dryer, remove lower front panel or access panel, locate thermal fuse (usually on blower housing or near heating element), disconnect wires, remove fastener(s), install new fuse, reconnect wires, reassemble. b. Belt: unplug dryer, remove front or top panel per model instructions, release idler tension and slip belt off motor pulley and drum, install new belt around drum (ribbed side against drum) and around motor pulley and idler, reassemble. c. Heating element (electric): disconnect power, access rear or lower access panel, disconnect element wiring, remove mounting screws and element assembly, install new element, reconnect wiring. d. Igniter/gas coils (gas): shut off gas supply and power, access burner assembly (usually behind front panel), disconnect electrical connectors, unfasten mounting screws, replace igniter or gas coils, reconnect, restore gas and test for ignition and leaks. Safety note: always unplug the dryer or turn off the breaker before any electrical work. For gas dryers, shut off the gas supply before disassembly and check for gas leaks after reassembly. If you are uncomfortable working with gas or high voltage, hire a qualified appliance technician.
Common Symptoms
Dryer won't start or tumble, dryer runs but produces no heat, long drying times, dryer overheats and shuts off, loud squeaks or rumbling during operation.
Common Causes
- Blown thermal fuse or bad safety thermostat
- Failed heating element (electric) or cracked igniter / bad gas valve coils (gas)
- Burnt motor, broken drive belt, or seized drum rollers
- Restricted venting or clogged lint screen reducing airflow
- Faulty door switch, start switch, or control/timer
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
These are the most common replacement parts that fix this problem. When you're ready to order, click below to find the right part at ProsourceParts.com — just search by your appliance model number for a guaranteed fit.
Helpful Repair Tip
Start by checking continuity on the thermal fuse and the heating element (electric) or watching the igniter glow when starting (gas). Those two quick checks rule out the most common heat problems.
Frequently Asked Questions
How can I tell if my Kenmore 110.72332512 is gas or electric?
Look at the back of the dryer and the model tag: a flexible gas line or a gas shutoff valve indicates a gas dryer. An electric dryer will have a heavy 3‑ or 4‑prong power cord and will usually specify 240V on the tag. If still unsure, open the door and check the model plate (inside door opening or on the back) — it will list 'electric' or 'gas' and electrical requirements.
Can I replace common parts like the thermal fuse or belt myself?
Yes — the thermal fuse and belt are common DIY repairs if you have basic tools. Always disconnect power (and gas for gas models) first. Take photos of wire connections before disconnecting so you can reattach correctly. If the repair requires working on the gas valve or major electrical wiring and you are not comfortable, hire a licensed technician.
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