Kenmore Dryer 11064672400 Heating Element Replacement – How to Diagnose & Fix
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Understanding the Problem
What this is and why it matters: The heating element assembly is the part that produces the heat in an electric Kenmore dryer. When it fails you’ll typically get no heat or weak heat and long dry times. Replacing the element is a common DIY repair if you have basic tools and a multimeter. Diagnostic steps (numbered): 1. Confirm symptoms: dryer tumbles but produces no heat, clothes remain damp after a normal cycle, or you smell burning and the dryer repeatedly trips the breaker. 2. Verify power: unplug the dryer or shut off the breaker. Then, with the dryer plugged in and set to a heating cycle, check voltage at the terminal block (at the back) — you should see about 240 VAC across the two hot legs. If you only have 120 VAC, one hot leg is missing and the element won’t heat. 3. Check the thermal fuse: locate the thermal fuse (usually mounted on the blower housing or exhaust duct). Remove the fuse and check continuity with a multimeter. An open thermal fuse will prevent the element from powering and must be replaced. 4. Test the heating element for continuity: access the heating element housing (rear access or lower front panel depending on the cabinet). Disconnect the element’s wires and measure resistance across the element terminals. A good element normally shows low resistance (typically a few ohms to a few tens of ohms depending on the model). Infinite resistance = open (failed) element. 5. Inspect the element visually: with the element removed, look for broken coils, burned spots, or the coil touching the metal housing (short to ground). Any of these indicate replacement. 6. Check thermostats and cycling control: if the element has continuity but still won’t heat, test the high-limit thermostat and cycling thermostat for continuity. Any open thermostat should be replaced. Replacement steps (how to fix): Tools required: nut drivers or socket set (commonly 1/4", 5/16"), Phillips screwdriver, putty knife, needle-nose pliers, 1/4" or 5/16" nut driver for terminal nuts, multimeter, replacement heating element assembly, safety gloves and eye protection. 1. Safety first: unplug the dryer or turn off the breaker supplying it. Do not work with the dryer energized. 2. Move dryer away from wall to access the back panel. If uncertain whether your model is electric or gas, verify on the model/rating plate before starting — gas dryers do not have an electric heating element. 3. Remove the access panel: for many Kenmore 110-series models you can remove the back panel (or lower front access panel) to reach the element housing. Remove screws securing the panel and set aside. 4. Label and disconnect wires: take a photo of the wiring before you disconnect anything. Carefully pull off wire connectors from the heating element terminals and any nearby thermostats or thermal fuse you will need to remove/inspect. 5. Remove the element assembly: the element is usually held by screws and/or spring clips inside the housing. Remove mounting screws and carefully pull the element assembly out of the housing. Watch for sharp sheet metal. 6. Inspect the housing and venting: while the dryer is open, clean lint build-up and inspect the blower and vent path. Excess lint can cause overheating and premature element failure. 7. Install the new element: position the new element assembly in the housing, secure with screws/clips, and reconnect the wire leads to the same terminals per your photo. Replace any thermostats or thermal fuses that tested open. 8. Reassemble the dryer: replace the access panel, secure screws, push the dryer back, restore power and run a test cycle. 9. Test after repair: run the dryer on a timed cycle and verify it produces heat and reaches normal operating temperatures. Monitor for unusual odors or tripping breakers. Safety note: Always disconnect power before testing or handling electrical components. Heating elements and internal edges are sharp; wear gloves and eye protection. If you’re uncomfortable working with household voltage or unsure about tests, hire a qualified appliance technician.
Common Symptoms
Dryer tumbles but produces no heat, long dry times, breaker trips when heater kicks on, burning smell or uneven/weak heating.
Common Causes
- Open/broken heating element coil
- Blown thermal fuse or open high-limit thermostat
- Missing 240V supply (one hot leg lost)
- Shorted element contacting the housing or wiring issue
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Helpful Repair Tip
Before removing the element, test it in place: disconnect the element leads and measure resistance across the two main element terminals. Open (infinite) resistance means the element is bad. Also check continuity between element and housing — continuity to ground means the element is shorted and must be replaced.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if the heating element is really bad?
Unplug the dryer, remove power to the element, and measure resistance across the element terminals with a multimeter. An open (infinite) reading indicates the element coil is broken and the element must be replaced. Also inspect for visible breaks, burned areas, or the coil touching the metal housing (short).
Can I replace the heating element myself and how long does it take?
Yes — if you’re comfortable with basic tools and following safety steps you can replace it yourself. Typical job time is 45–90 minutes depending on access and experience. Always disconnect power first, take photos of wiring, and replace any thermal fuse or thermostat that tested faulty while you have the dryer open.
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