Kenmore Coldspot 106.57404600 Ice Maker – Troubleshooting & Repair Guide
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Understanding the Problem
This guide covers common ice maker problems in the Kenmore Coldspot model 106.57404600 and shows how to diagnose and fix them. Typical failures include no ice production, partial fills, small/crumbly cubes, leakage, or the ice maker not ejecting cubes. 1) Preliminary checks - Verify the model number (106.57404600) and unplug the refrigerator or switch the breaker off. Turn the water supply to the refrigerator off before doing any plumbing work. - Check that the ice maker is switched ON (some units have a metal arm or a switch inside the ice maker housing). - Inspect the door and door gaskets — if the freezer door doesn’t seal the compartment will run warmer and ice production will stop. 2) Confirm simple issues first - Is the water supply valve (usually under the sink/behind fridge) fully open? If recently installed, the water line could be kinked. - When was the water filter last changed? A clogged filter reduces flow and can prevent filling. - Is there visible ice blocking the fill tube behind the ice maker? Frozen fill tubes are a common cause and can be thawed with a hair dryer (on low) after unplugging the fridge. 3) Functional tests (tools: multimeter, voltmeter, flashlight, small screwdriver) - Power test: With power on, test for 120 VAC to the ice maker module power terminal. No voltage usually means a control/board or wiring problem. If you are not comfortable testing high voltage, skip and call a tech. - Harvest cycle test: Most ice maker modules have a test/diagnostic function. Manually advance the harvest gear (with the unit off and the cover removed) or use the test switch to force a harvest/fill cycle. If the motor turns but cubes don’t eject, the ejector blades or heating element may be bad. - Water fill test: Put a container under the fill spout and initiate a fill cycle (manual test mode). If the fill valve clicks but no water flows, suspect low water pressure, a clogged filter, or a bad inlet valve. - Continuity checks: With power disconnected, test the ice maker module motor/heater/thermostat for continuity. A failed motor or heater will usually read open. 4) Specific part tests and replacement steps - Frozen fill tube: Remove ice bin and spray foam or ice build-up with a hair dryer to thaw (power OFF). After thawing, inspect for leaks and verify fills normally. - Water inlet valve: If you hear the valve click during a fill but no water flows, remove the valve at the back, check inlet screen for debris, and test solenoid coil resistance (should show continuity — coil values vary). Replace valve if it doesn’t open under supply pressure or if coil is open. - Ice maker assembly (module/motor/harvest thermostat): If the ice maker never cycles, shows no motor movement during test mode, or the harvest heater doesn’t de-ice the mold, replace the entire ice maker assembly. On this model the simplest repair is usually to replace the complete ice maker rather than repairing internal gears. - Water filter: Replace the filter if flow is low. After replacing, run several fill cycles to purge air. 5) How to replace the ice maker (typical for Coldspot units) - Tools: Philips screwdriver, 1/4" nut driver, towel, multimeter. - Steps: 1) Unplug refrigerator and turn off water. 2) Remove ice bin and the plastic cover over the ice maker. 3) Disconnect the wiring harness from the ice maker module (note connector orientation). 4) Remove the mounting screws holding the ice maker to the freezer wall/rail. 5) Slide the old ice maker out and remove the fill tube and any clip. 6) Install the new ice maker in reverse order, reconnect wiring and secure mounting screws. 7) Turn on water and power. Put ice maker into test mode to verify fill and harvest cycles. 8) Allow 24 hours for normal ice production. 6) When to replace the water inlet valve - Replace valve if it does not open under voltage, has damaged or corroded screens, or leaks. Inlet valves are an independent repair and typically mounted at the back of the fridge near the water line. 7) Final verification - After any repair, run at least two manual fill cycles (test mode) to confirm water flow and check for leaks. Monitor the first 24–48 hours to confirm normal ice production (expect several hours per batch depending on temperature). Safety note: Always disconnect electrical power and shut off the water supply before removing or replacing electrical or plumbing components. If you aren’t comfortable performing electrical tests or handling refrigerant or sealed system components, hire a qualified appliance technician.
Common Symptoms
No ice production, slow/partial fills, small or hollow cubes, ice maker not cycling/harvesting, leaking or overflowing ice bin, ice buildup behind fill tube.
Common Causes
- Closed or kinked water supply / clogged water filter
- Failed water inlet valve (no fill despite valve activation)
- Bad ice maker module motor, harvest thermostat, or heater (won’t cycle or eject)
- Frozen fill tube or ice blockage in the mold
- Door seal or freezer temperature too warm
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Helpful Repair Tip
Put the ice maker into its test/diagnostic cycle: if the motor runs but there’s no water, the inlet valve or filter is the culprit; if the valve clicks but the motor doesn’t run, replace the ice maker assembly.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long after repair will the ice maker make ice?
After a successful repair and a good water fill, expect the first batch in 4–24 hours depending on freezer temperature. Full normal production may take 24–48 hours.
Can I just replace a single failed gear or motor inside the ice maker?
On many Coldspot/Kenmore units the economical and reliable fix is to replace the entire ice maker assembly. Internal parts (gears/motors/heaters) are often not sold separately or are difficult to service, so full assembly replacement reduces downtime and future failures.
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