Kenmore 79640272900 Cold Water Inlet Valve – What Part Fixes This Problem?
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Understanding the Problem
What this part is: The cold water inlet valve (often sold as the inlet valve assembly) is the solenoid valve that opens to let cold water into the washer during the fill cycle. If the cold side fails the washer may not fill with cold water, fill only with hot, fill very slowly, or leak at the back of the machine. Step‑by‑step diagnostic & repair steps: 1) Verify symptom and basics: Confirm cold water supply at the wall is turned on and the faucet gives full cold water flow. Inspect inlet hoses for kinks and make sure the washer is set to a cycle that requests cold water. 2) Check screens and hoses: Shut off water and disconnect the cold inlet hose at the washer. Look into the valve inlet for small mesh screens — debris can block flow. Clean screens with water and a brush if dirty. 3) Look for visible leaks: With hoses disconnected, inspect the valve body for cracks or corrosion. Any leak means replace the valve assembly. 4) Electrical check (continuity): Unplug the washer. Access the valve harness and unplug the cold solenoid connector. Use a multimeter on ohms/continuity across the cold solenoid terminals. A healthy coil typically shows continuity (not infinite); an open circuit (OL) means the coil is burned out and the valve must be replaced. 5) Live voltage check (advanced): With the washer plugged in and a fill cycle active, carefully measure the voltage at the cold solenoid connector. You should see ~120 VAC (or the machine's supply voltage) when the machine commands cold fill. If you see voltage but valve doesn't open, valve is defective. If you see no voltage, problem may be control board or wiring. 6) Replace valve if faulty: If the coil is open, the valve leaks, or it doesn’t open when energized but voltage is present, replace the inlet valve assembly (see replacement steps below). Basic replacement steps (how to fix): 1) Tools & prep: Unplug washer, shut off both hot and cold supply valves, have a towel/bucket, pliers, screwdrivers, and socket set. Note: Many inlet valves mount at the back near the top of the washer behind a rear access panel. 2) Remove access panel: Pull the washer away from the wall, remove the rear/top access panel screws, and set panel aside. 3) Drain hoses: Put a towel/bucket under the valve, unscrew the cold water hose from the valve and let remaining water drain. 4) Label and disconnect wiring: Note or photograph wire positions on the valve. Unplug electrical connectors from the valve solenoids. 5) Remove mounting screws and valve: Unscrew the valve assembly from the washer and remove it. Some models mount the valve behind a bracket; save any screws. 6) Install new valve: Position the new valve, secure with screws, reconnect wiring to the same terminals, and tighten the inlet hose on the cold side. Check that any rubber gaskets are seated. 7) Leak & function test: Turn on water supply, check for leaks, plug washer in, run a short fill cycle to confirm cold water flow and that the washer fills normally. 8) Reassemble: Replace the access panel and move the washer back into place after confirming no leaks. Safety note: Always disconnect power before doing internal checks. For live voltage testing only if you are experienced — use insulated tools and keep hands clear of moving parts. If unsure, hire a qualified technician.
Common Symptoms
No cold water fill, only hot fills, very slow cold fill, leaks at the back where inlet hoses connect, or washer error codes indicating fill faults.
Common Causes
- Failed cold solenoid coil inside the inlet valve assembly
- Clogged inlet screens or debris trapped in the valve
- Kinked/blocked supply hose or closed shutoff at the wall
- Faulty control board or wiring not supplying voltage to the valve
- Cracked valve body or worn internal diaphragms causing leaks
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
These are the most common replacement parts that fix this problem. When you're ready to order, click below to find the right part at ProsourceParts.com — just search by your appliance model number for a guaranteed fit.
Helpful Repair Tip
To confirm the valve is bad: run a fill cycle and measure for voltage at the cold solenoid. Voltage present but no flow = bad valve. No voltage = control/wiring issue.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I replace just the cold side solenoid, or do I need the whole valve assembly?
Most machines use a combined inlet valve assembly with two solenoids (hot and cold) and it’s common to replace the entire assembly. Individual solenoids may be available for some models, but replacing the full valve is simpler and avoids future mismatch issues—verify compatibility with your model number first.
How long does it take and how much does it cost to replace the inlet valve?
A DIY replacement typically takes 30–60 minutes if you have basic tools. Parts cost varies by supplier and region; expect roughly $40–120 for a replacement valve assembly. If you hire a technician, add labor (often $80–150). Always confirm the exact part for model 79640272900 before purchasing.
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