Kenmore 66702692 No Heat After Replacements — How to Find the Remaining Fault
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Understanding the Problem
If your Kenmore 66702692 dryer runs (drum spins and motor runs) but produces no heat even after replacing the heating element, cycling thermostat, thermal fuse, and thermal cut-off, the remaining fault is usually upstream of the element or in a control/connection that supplies power to the element. Common culprits include a missing hot leg (one 120V leg of the 240V supply), a failed timer or electronic control that isn’t switching the heat circuit on, a damaged terminal block or wiring harness, or a motor centrifugal switch/contact that must close to enable the element. This guide walks you through the most likely causes and the electrical tests that will isolate whether the problem is lack of supply voltage, a bad control/timer, wiring/connection faults, or a motor-related interlock. Many technicians find the issue by measuring voltage at the element/terminal block while the dryer is running; if the element never sees 240V, you look at power, timer/control board, terminal block, and related wiring rather than the element itself.
Common Symptoms
Dryer motor and drum run normally but there is no heat; no blown fuses or open thermal cutouts after replacement; occasional popping or burned terminal signs; intermittent heating depending on settings.
Common Causes
- One hot leg of the 240V supply is missing (power issue at the wall, cord, or terminal block)
- Failed timer or electronic control board/relay that doesn't send power to the element
- Damaged or corroded heater terminal block / wiring harness / poor connections
- Motor centrifugal switch or interlock (that enables the heater only when motor runs) is open or the motor isn’t reaching speed
- Heating element wired incorrectly or element housing shorted to ground preventing proper circuit
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Helpful Repair Tip
With the dryer running on a heat cycle, use a multimeter to measure the voltage across the two outer terminals at the terminal block or directly at the heating element leads — you should read ~240V. If you see ~120V or 0V, stop and trace power (power cord, terminal block, timer/control, motor centrifugal switch) before replacing more parts.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does the dryer run but not heat even after replacing all the heating safety parts?
Because those parts protect or form part of the heating circuit but don’t supply power. If the dryer spins and the element is good, the next places to check are the incoming 240V supply (one leg may be dead), the terminal block where the cord connects, the control/timer that switches the heating circuit, the motor’s centrifugal switch (which enables heat only when motor runs), and any damaged wiring or burned connections. Measure voltage at the element during a run cycle to determine where power stops.
Can a bad power cord or loose terminal block cause no-heat even though the motor runs?
Yes. A dryer can turn on and run using only one 120V leg while the heating element requires both 120V legs (240V). If one hot leg is missing at the power cord or terminal block, the motor (which may run on one leg) will operate but the element will not get full voltage and won’t heat. Also, corroded or loose connections at the terminal block can interrupt the heater feed even though the dryer appears to run normally.
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