Kenmore 200 Lid Lock Assembly – How to Replace and Reinstall the Lid Lock
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Understanding the Problem
The lid lock (or lid switch) prevents the washer from starting or spinning when the lid is open and signals the control board when the lid is closed. Over time the switch or its actuator can fail, the harness can break, or the latch can become misaligned. Below are step-by-step diagnostics and a practical replacement/assembly procedure. 1) Confirm the symptom and gather tools - Symptom examples: washer won't start, won't spin, displays lid error, or lid stays locked. Gather: multimeter, Phillips and flat-head screwdrivers, nut driver set (commonly 1/4" or 5/16"), needle-nose pliers, flashlight, gloves. 2) Safety first - Unplug the washer from power. If it’s hardwired, switch off the breaker. Shut off water if you will move the machine. Never work on electrical components while the washer is powered. 3) Locate what you have (top-load vs front-load) - Top-load Kenmore 200-series machines typically have a lid switch/lock mounted under the control console or at the rear hinge area of the lid. Front-load machines have a door lock assembly at the front door opening. Confirm which style your specific model uses by checking the model tag (inside the cabinet or on the back). 4) Basic tests before disassembly - With power OFF and harness disconnected, use a multimeter set to continuity or low-Ohms. For a mechanical lid switch: with the lid closed (or manually depress the actuator), you should see continuity between the switch terminals. For an electronic lock/solenoid: measure coil resistance (usually a few hundred ohms); open circuit indicates failed coil. If the switch reads correctly, check wiring harness continuity and for corrosion or a broken wire. 5) Accessing the lock/switch (top-load common method) - Open lid. Remove two screws at the rear of the control console (or two fasteners under the front lip) and flip the console forward to access the top panel hinge area. On some models you remove the entire console by releasing clips. - If locked under the top panel, remove the top panel screws at the rear and slide the top back or lift the top off (support the lid as needed). 6) Removing the old lid lock - Locate the lid lock assembly and its wiring connector. - Disconnect the small harness connector (press tab and pull). Note the connector orientation or take a photo for reassembly. - Remove the mounting screws or clips holding the lock. Keep track of any small plastic spacer or strike plate. - Inspect the actuator (plastic striker on lid) for cracks or wear; replace if damaged. 7) Installing the new lid lock - Position new lock in place and secure with mounting screws/clips. Do not overtighten plastic screws. - Reconnect the harness. Make sure the connector snaps fully. - Reassemble the top/console in reverse order. 8) Test operation - Restore power. With the lid closed (or door latched), start a small cycle or select a spin — the machine should recognize the lid closed and proceed. If it still faults, check for error codes and verify wiring continuity between lock and control board. 9) Troubleshooting if replacement doesn't fix it - Check wiring harness for broken wires between the lock and control board (visible damage, crushed wires, or corroded connectors). - Test the control board’s lid-switch input circuit (requires wiring diagram and measured voltage when powered). If the board doesn’t see a closed signal despite a good switch, the board could be faulty. Safety note: Always disconnect power before testing or touching electrical connectors. If you are uncomfortable with electrical tests or removing the control console, contact a qualified appliance technician.
Common Symptoms
Washer won’t start or spin, cycle won’t advance, lid stays locked/unlocked, 'lid' or 'door' error codes, intermittent starting problems.
Common Causes
- Failed lid switch or lid lock solenoid
- Broken or misaligned lid striker/actuator
- Damaged wiring harness or corroded connector
- Control board not receiving the lid-closed signal
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Helpful Repair Tip
Before replacing the part, disconnect the harness and check continuity with a multimeter while manually pressing the actuator; no continuity when the lid is closed means the switch is bad.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I find my Kenmore 200 model number so I can order the correct lid lock?
Look for the model and serial tag on the washer: for top-load Kenmores it’s commonly inside the cabinet under the lid on the tub rim or on the back panel. For front-load models the tag is often on the door frame or the rear panel. Use that exact model number when ordering the part to ensure fitment.
My washer still won't start after I replaced the lid lock — what should I check next?
Verify the replacement part is the correct model and that the harness was fully seated. Check continuity of the harness from the lock connector to the control board, inspect for crushed or burned wires, and confirm the control board sees the closed-lid signal (requires meter and wiring diagram). If wiring and switch are good, the control board or its input circuit may be faulty.
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