Kenmore 11066102500 Dryer Thermostat – Which Part Fixes This & How to Replace It
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Understanding the Problem
What this part is and why it matters: The dryer thermostat(s) (cycling thermostat and high-limit thermostat) control operating temperature and act as thermal safety cutouts. If a thermostat fails open or shorted, the dryer can overheat, underheat, cycle on and off, or stop heating entirely. Step-by-step diagnostics and repair (practical how-to): 1. Safety first: Unplug the dryer from power. If it's a gas dryer, shut off the gas supply at the valve and move the dryer a short distance away from the wall to access the rear panel. Always work with the dryer disconnected and gas off when applicable. 2. Confirm symptoms: Note whether the dryer is not heating at all, heats briefly then stops, overheats, or runs but never reaches temperature. These patterns guide testing. 3. Access the thermostats: Remove the dryer top or rear panel depending on your model to reach the heating assembly/blower housing. On many Kenmore 110-series dryers the cycling thermostat(s) and high-limit thermostat are mounted on the blower housing or the heater housing. 4. Visual inspection: Look for burned or melted plastic, broken terminals, scorched wires, or lint buildup around the thermostats and thermal fuse. Replace if terminals are damaged. 5. Test with a multimeter (continuity test): Set meter to continuity or ohms. Disconnect thermostat wires. At room temperature a good cycling thermostat typically shows continuity (closed). A high-limit thermostat (if normally closed) should also show continuity at room temp. If either shows no continuity at room temp, the thermostat is open/faulty. 6. Heat test (optional): For cycling thermostats you can gently heat the sensor bulb or thermostat body (using a hair dryer while monitoring) to see if the thermostat opens at its rated temperature (this requires knowing the spec; it's safer to compare to a known-good part). If it never changes state when heated, it’s bad. 7. Check related components: A failed thermal fuse or clogged vent can mimic thermostat problems. Test the thermal fuse for continuity. Inspect and clean the exhaust vent and lint screen before replacing parts—restricted airflow will cause overheating and can prematurely fail thermostats. 8. Obtain the correct replacement: Identify the part number printed on the existing thermostat or get the exact parts list for model 11066102500 from the manufacturer/parts diagrams. Replace with an exact match (temperature rating and terminal style must match). 9. Replace the thermostat: Disconnect wires (take a photo first), remove mounting screws or clips, swap the old thermostat for the new one, reconnect wires to matching terminals, and secure the unit back in place. 10. Reassemble and test: Reattach panels, restore power (and gas if applicable), run a test cycle with an empty load. Monitor heat-up and cycling behavior and re-check venting and lint trap. Safety note: Do not bypass thermostats, thermal fuses, or other safety devices to force the dryer to heat. These are essential safety components. If you’re not comfortable with electrical or gas work, hire a qualified technician.
Common Symptoms
Dryer not heating, dryer overheats and trips, dryer heats briefly then shuts off, dryer cycles frequently or blows cold air while tumbling.
Common Causes
- Open or failed cycling thermostat (temperature regulator)
- Blown high-limit thermostat (safety cut-out) or thermal fuse
- Restricted exhaust vent causing overheating and tripping thermostats
- Faulty heating element, igniter (gas), or control board causing abnormal cycling
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
These are the most common replacement parts that fix this problem. When you're ready to order, click below to find the right part at ProsourceParts.com — just search by your appliance model number for a guaranteed fit.
Helpful Repair Tip
Before ordering parts, remove the dryer panel and read the stamped part number on the thermostat itself or take a clear photo — many Kenmore/Whirlpool thermostats look identical but have different temperature ratings. Also test the thermal fuse and clear the vent first; bad venting often causes thermostat failures.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if the thermostat or the thermal fuse is bad?
Start with a visual check and continuity test. With power removed, disconnect the wires and test each component with a multimeter. A thermal fuse that is blown will show no continuity at room temperature. A thermostat that is open when it should be closed at room temp is faulty. Also inspect venting: a clogged vent can cause overheating that trips a good thermostat.
Can I replace the thermostat myself and how long does it take?
Yes — replacing a dryer thermostat is a medium-difficulty DIY job for someone comfortable with basic tools. Allow 30–90 minutes depending on access. Always unplug the dryer (and shut off gas for gas dryers) before starting. If the thermostat is behind the rear panel it’s straightforward; if it’s behind the drum or heating assembly it can take longer. If you’re unsure about gas connections or electrical safety, hire a pro.
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