Kenmore 11065152411 Dryer — Common Problems, Diagnostics & Parts That Fix It
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Understanding the Problem
This guide covers common problems you’ll see on Kenmore dryers in the 110 series (model 11065152411), what parts usually fail, and step-by-step diagnostic and repair actions you can take. Start with simple checks (power, venting, door switch) before moving to parts that require disassembly. 1) Basic checks to perform first 1.1. Confirm power/gas: For electric dryers, verify the outlet has 240V with a multimeter and the cord is tight. For gas dryers, confirm the gas valve is open and you can hear/feel gas supply; if you smell gas, stop and call a pro. Check house breaker/fuse. 1.2. Check the venting: Disconnect the external vent and run the dryer on a high-heat timed cycle for 5–10 minutes. If air flow is weak or clothes dry much faster with the vent disconnected, clean the vent, hose and lint screen. Restricted venting causes long dry times and overheating. 1.3. Confirm the drum spins and the door latch works: Try turning the drum by hand with the dryer off. Listen for rubbing, scraping, or bearing noise. Make sure the door switch clicks when the door closes — the dryer won’t start or heat if the door switch is faulty. 2) Symptom: Dryer doesn’t start 2.1. Check power (see 1.1). 2.2. Test the door switch for continuity with a multimeter; replace if open when closed. 2.3. Check start switch and drive motor: With the dryer unplugged, inspect the motor for burnt smell and test continuity on motor windings. If motor hums but doesn’t turn, suspect capacitor (if present), motor bearings, or seized drum. 2.4. Inspect thermal cut-out / high-limit fuses — a blown thermal fuse will stop the dryer from starting (commonly located on the blower housing or exhaust duct). Test for continuity and replace if open. 3) Symptom: Dryer runs but won’t heat (gas dryer) 3.1. Confirm lint screen and vent are clear. 3.2. Verify gas supply and that you can hear ignition clicks when cycle starts. 3.3. Check the igniter: If igniter doesn’t glow or there's no clicking, test igniter continuity and replace if open or visibly broken. 3.4. Test flame (gas) valve solenoid coils: With power off, check coils for continuity; failed coils often allow the igniter to glow but not open the gas valve. Replace coil kit if one or more coils are open. 3.5. Check the thermal fuse and thermistors/temperature sensors — a blown thermal fuse or failed thermostat can disable the heating circuit. 4) Symptom: Dryer runs but won’t heat (electric dryer) 4.1. Confirm both hot legs at the outlet (240V). If only one hot leg present, motor will run but heating elements won’t. 4.2. Test the heating element for continuity and look for broken coils or grounding to the housing. Replace element if broken or grounded. 4.3. Test high-limit thermostat(s), cycling thermostat, thermal fuse and temperature sensors for continuity. Replace any open components. 5) Symptom: Takes too long to dry / overheats intermittently 5.1. Clean lint screen and vent thoroughly; restricted airflow is the #1 cause. 5.2. Inspect drum seals, glides and rollers for wear causing slippage or extra friction. Replace worn rollers, bearings and seals. 5.3. Check thermostats and high-limit switches — if they fail closed or open intermittently, they can cause overheating or extended cycles. 6) Symptom: Loud noise or vibration 6.1. Check drum support rollers, bearings, idler pulley and motor bearings for wear or rubbing. Remove the front panel and spin the drum by hand — listen for scraping, grinding or thumping. 6.2. Inspect the drum belt for fraying or missing ribs and the idler pulley for smooth rotation. Replace worn parts. 7) Common repair/replacement steps (general guidance) 7.1. Thermal fuse replacement (common, simple): Unplug dryer (or shut off gas). Access the back panel or lower front panel depending on model, locate the thermal fuse on blower housing, disconnect wires, remove screws, install new fuse and reattach wires. Test dryer. 7.2. Belt replacement: Unplug dryer. Remove top/front panel to access drum. Remove drum, release old belt from motor and idler, install new belt around drum ribs and through idler, re-seat drum, reassemble. Ensure correct belt routing and tension. 7.3. Igniter or gas valve coil replacement (gas dryer): Unplug dryer and turn gas off. Remove front panel, locate burner tube and igniter assembly, disconnect wires, remove mounting screws and replace the igniter or coil pack. Reassemble, turn gas back on, and test ignition outside in a ventilated area. If you smell gas at any time, stop and call a professional. 7.4. Motor or drum roller replacement: Unplug dryer. Remove drum and bulkhead to access motor and rollers. Replace worn rollers, bearings, or motor per service manual. Motors can be heavy — support parts and note belt routing before removal. Safety note: Always unplug the dryer or shut off power at the breaker before working on electrical components. For gas models, shut off the gas supply before opening the cabinet. If you smell gas, stop work immediately, ventilate the area and contact the gas utility or a qualified technician. Use a multimeter and basic tools; if a repair requires gas line or control board replacement and you’re not comfortable, hire a certified technician.
Common Symptoms
Dryer won't start; drum spins but no heat; long dry times; loud scraping or rumbling noise; dryer overheats or trips thermal cutoff.
Common Causes
- Blown thermal fuse or open thermostat
- Restricted or clogged venting/lint screen
- Failed igniter or gas valve coils (gas models) or broken heating element (electric models)
- Worn drum rollers, idler pulley or belt
- Faulty door switch, motor, or electronic control
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
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Helpful Repair Tip
Use a multimeter to check continuity on the thermal fuse, door switch and igniter first — these are inexpensive to replace and commonly cause no-start or no-heat faults. Also run the dryer with the vent disconnected to quickly check for airflow/venting issues.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the Kenmore 11065152411 electric or gas — how do I tell?
Check the model tag (usually inside the door opening or on the back panel). It will list the electrical rating or ‘gas’ designation. A gas model has a gas line connection and an igniter; an electric model will have a 240V cord and an element assembly. If in doubt, post a photo of the back and model tag and you’ll get a precise identification.
Can I replace the thermal fuse or igniter myself?
Yes — thermal fuses and igniters are common DIY repairs and are relatively inexpensive and straightforward to replace if you’re comfortable removing panels and using basic tools. Always unplug the dryer (and shut off gas on gas models) before starting. If you’re uncomfortable working with gas components or if the dryer requires control board or gas-line work, call a qualified appliance technician.
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