Kenmore 10658173702 Quick-Connect Water Inlet Valve – What Part Fixes This Problem?
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Understanding the Problem
What this part is and why it matters: The Kenmore 10658173702 is a quick-connect style refrigerator water inlet valve (solenoid valve) that controls water flow to the ice maker and water dispenser. It mounts at the back or bottom of the fridge and receives the home water supply through a plastic or copper tube. When the ice maker or dispenser requests water, the fridge control energizes the valve solenoid and the valve opens to allow water in. Step-by-step diagnostic and repair instructions: 1) Verify the symptoms: confirm whether the issue is no water, low flow, continuous flow, or a leak. Note if both dispenser and ice maker are affected or only one. 2) Confirm supply and filter: make sure the house water valve is fully open and the fridge water filter (if installed) is not clogged. Replace the filter or bypass it for testing. 3) Listen and observe: activate the dispenser or cycle the ice maker while standing next to the valve area. You should hear a distinct click when the valve is energized. No click suggests the solenoid isn’t being energized or the coil is bad. 4) Electrical test: unplug the refrigerator and disconnect the harness from the valve. Use a multimeter to check coil resistance across the valve’s solenoid terminals (typical values vary by model; many valves read a few hundred ohms). If infinite/open, the coil is burned out. Reconnect power and carefully measure whether voltage is present at the valve when calling for water (do this only if you are comfortable and with the fridge plugged in). If voltage is present but valve doesn’t open, the valve is defective. 5) Check for clogged inlet screen: shut off water, disconnect the inlet tube and inspect the screen at the valve inlet for scale/sediment. Clean or replace as needed. 6) Replace the valve: if the valve leaks, doesn’t open when energized, or coil is open, replace it. Follow the replacement steps below. Basic replacement steps (practical how-to): 1. Tools & parts: new water inlet valve (10658173702 or exact OEM replacement), adjustable wrench, needle-nose pliers, screwdriver, towel, bucket, multimeter (optional). 2. Safety first: unplug the refrigerator and shut off the water supply to the fridge. 3. Access the valve: pull the fridge out and remove the cardboard/plastic access panel (usually at the back bottom or front kickplate) to reach the valve. 4. Relieve water pressure: place a towel and small container to catch drips, then depress the quick-connect collar and pull out the water tubing to relieve pressure. 5. Disconnect wiring: label or photograph the wire connectors, then unplug the electrical harness from the valve. 6. Remove mounting: unscrew the valve mounting screw(s) and remove the old valve assembly. 7. Install new valve: position the new valve, secure with mounting screws, and connect the electrical harness to the correct terminals (match the photos/labels). 8. Reconnect water tubing: push the tubing fully into the quick-connect fitting until it seats; pull gently to ensure secure connection. Turn the home water supply back on slowly and check for leaks at the quick-connect and valve inlet. 9. Test operation: plug the fridge back in, run the water dispenser and initiate a manual ice maker fill (or force a harvest cycle if applicable) to confirm water flow and that the valve opens and closes correctly. 10. Final check: inspect for leaks, reinstall access panels, and push the fridge back into place. Safety note: always disconnect power and water before working on the valve. If you are not comfortable working with electrical tests or water fittings, hire a qualified appliance technician.
Common Symptoms
No water to dispenser or ice maker; weak/slow water flow; continuous leaking or dripping from the valve; audible constant running water; water dispenser clicks but no flow.
Common Causes
- Burned-out solenoid coil (valve won’t open when energized)
- Clogged inlet screen or sediment blocking flow
- Leaking valve body or bad internal seals
- Low house water pressure or clogged/old water filter
- Wiring or control board not sending voltage to the valve
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
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Helpful Repair Tip
To confirm the valve is faulty, first bypass the filter and check for a clear supply line; then listen for the valve 'click' when calling for water. If you measure voltage to the valve but it doesn't open, the valve is almost certainly bad.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I replace the inlet valve myself?
Yes — most homeowners can replace this valve with basic tools. Turn off the water and unplug the refrigerator first, then remove the access panel, disconnect the quick-connect tubing and wiring, swap the valve, and test for leaks. If you’re not comfortable working around electrical connections or testing voltage, call a technician.
How do I know if the valve or the control board is the problem?
Listen for the click when the dispenser or ice maker requests water. If you hear the click but no water flows, check for voltage at the valve terminals during a dispense cycle. If voltage is present but the valve doesn’t open, the valve is faulty. If there’s no voltage at the valve when there should be, the problem is likely wiring, the dispenser switch, or the control board.
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