Kenmore 106.54206300 Ice Maker Control Board – What Part Fixes This?
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Understanding the Problem
Brief explanation: The ice maker control board (also called the ice maker module or control module) is the electronic component that sequences the ice maker’s harvest, fill, and freeze cycles and controls the motor and heater. In many Kenmore refrigerators the control module is either a separate small circuit board mounted on the ice maker or integrated into the ice maker assembly. Diagnostic & repair steps: 1) Confirm the symptom: Note whether the ice maker never cycles, cycles but doesn’t fill, harvests but doesn’t eject, or makes partial batches. This guides diagnosis. 2) Locate model/tag and wiring diagram: Find the refrigerator model tag (usually inside the fresh food or freezer compartment) and download the wiring diagram/service manual if available. For model 106.54206300, order parts by that model number to ensure correct replacement. 3) Do a basic reset: Open the freezer door and lift or press the ice maker’s test/eject arm (if present) or use the diagnostic/test switch/button to force a cycle. If it completes a cycle correctly, the board may be intermittent. 4) Check water supply and valve: If the ice maker harvests but does not fill, verify water line is on and water valve is getting power when fill should occur. If no fill voltage is present, suspect the control board/module. 5) Test for motor/heater function: During a forced harvest test, observe if the motor turns and if the heater (if present) energizes to loosen ice. Use a multimeter to check continuity on the motor and heater elements and to see if control board supplies voltage to them during a cycle. 6) Measure voltages to the module: With power applied and during a test cycle, measure the voltage at the harness going to the module and at the module outputs (refer to wiring diagram). If the module is not sending output voltages while inputs are correct, the module is likely bad. 7) Inspect for visible damage: Unplug fridge power, pull the ice maker forward and inspect the module and wiring for burned components, cracked solder joints, water intrusion, or corrosion. 8) Replace the module or ice maker: If tests point to a bad module, order the correct replacement module for model 106.54206300 or replace the entire ice maker assembly if the module is integrated. 9) Install and test: After replacement, reconnect, restore power, and force a test cycle. Confirm the motor turns, the harvest completes, and the fill valve is energized during the fill step. Allow normal operation for a full freeze/fill cycle before considering job complete. How to fix (practical steps for replacing a separate control module): 1) Tools: Phillips screwdriver, nut driver set, small socket set, multimeter, needle-nose pliers. 2) Power off: Unplug the refrigerator or shut off power at the breaker. 3) Access ice maker: Open freezer, remove ice bin, and remove the ice maker cover (usually a couple of screws). 4) Disconnect harness: Carefully unplug the wire harness from the module. Take a photo of connections for reassembly. 5) Remove module: Remove mounting screws/clips and slide the module off the ice maker shaft or housing. 6) Transfer any required parts: If replacing only the module, transfer any mounting brackets or connectors to the new module. 7) Install new module: Snap or screw the new module into place, reconnect the wire harness, and reassemble covers. 8) Restore power and test: Plug in the fridge, use the ice maker test to run a harvest, and verify motor and fill actions. Wait for the next fill cycle to confirm water fill. Safety note: Always disconnect power before working on electrical components. Use a meter only if you are comfortable and know how to measure AC/DC voltages safely. If you’re unsure about electrical testing or working inside the freezer, consider hiring a professional technician.
Common Symptoms
Ice maker never cycles; ice maker cycles but doesn’t fill; incomplete ice harvest; no motor movement during test; intermittent operation or corroded/burned module visible.
Common Causes
- Failed ice maker control module (electronic failure, failed relays or solder joints)
- Water intrusion or corrosion on the module or wiring harness
- Failed ice maker motor or mold thermostat (may mimic control failure)
- Faulty water inlet valve or low water pressure preventing fill
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
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Helpful Repair Tip
Before replacing the module, force a test cycle and measure whether the module supplies voltage to the fill valve and motor; if inputs are present but outputs are not, the control board/module is almost certainly bad.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if I should replace just the control module or the whole ice maker?
If the module is a separate snap-on printed circuit board and your tests show input power reaching the module but no output to the motor or valve, replacing just the module is a cost-effective fix. If the module is integrated into the ice maker plastic housing, or if the ice maker has multiple faults, corrosion, or physical damage, replace the entire ice maker assembly. When in doubt, compare the cost of the module vs the full assembly and consider longevity — a full assembly can be simpler and more reliable long-term.
Can I safely replace the ice maker control board myself?
Yes, if you are comfortable disconnecting refrigerator power, removing the ice bin and cover, and handling small electrical connectors. Turn off power at the plug or breaker first, take photos of connector positions, and use basic hand tools. If you need to test voltages during diagnosis, make sure you understand safe multimeter use. If you’re not comfortable with electrical testing or confined-space work inside the freezer, hiring a qualified technician is recommended.
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