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Gas Oven or Range Ignitor Not Working – What Part Fixes This Problem?

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Understanding the Problem

The ignition system in a gas oven or range is what lights the burner or bake burner. Most modern gas ranges use either a hot-surface ignitor (glow ignitor) or a spark igniter. When the ignitor fails the oven may not light at all, may ignite slowly, or may click repeatedly while gas is released. A failing ignitor can also cause delayed ignition that produces a loud pop or a noticeable gas smell, which is a safety concern. Common failure modes include a weakened hot-surface element that no longer draws enough current to open the gas valve, a cracked or broken igniter or electrode, damaged wiring/harness, or an issue with the gas valve or control board. Correct diagnosis focuses on confirming whether the ignitor itself is defective and whether it’s getting correct voltage/current before replacing more expensive parts.

Common Symptoms

Oven or surface burner won't ignite, long delay before ignition, clicking without lighting, dim or no glow from hot-surface ignitor, intermittent lighting or gas odor before ignition.

Common Causes

  • Worn or cracked hot-surface ignitor (filament degraded)
  • Damaged spark electrode or ignition module (for spark systems)
  • Faulty wiring/harness or connector causing poor voltage/current
  • Defective gas safety valve that won't open even with a good ignitor
  • Malfunctioning oven control board or relays

Popular Parts That Fix This Problem

These are the most common replacement parts that fix this problem. When you're ready to order, click below to find the right part at PartsDiscount.com — just search by your appliance model number for a guaranteed fit.

Varies by model — common examples: WB13K21 (Whirlpool), 316418900 (GE), 5303935062 (Kenmore/WhirlpooHot-surface ignitor (bake burner)
Varies by model — example numbers: W11122544, 318354304Spark electrode / igniter electrode (cooktop)
Common replacement harnesses: 4317948, 279838 (check model compatibility)Ignitor harness / connector
Model-specific; examples: 279833 (Dryer/range valves vary widely)Gas safety valve (inlet valve)
Model-specific; check appliance model number — examples include: 318490104, W11195313Oven control board / clock assembly
Pro tip incoming! 🧠

Helpful Repair Tip

Visually inspect the ignitor: a hot-surface ignitor should glow bright orange when calling for heat; a weak, dim glow often means replacement. Use a multimeter to check continuity/resistance and, if safe, measure current draw (amps) — low amp draw indicates a failing hot-surface ignitor.

Frequently Asked Questions

How can I tell if the ignitor is bad or if the gas valve is the problem?

First visually inspect the ignitor when the oven is set to light: a hot-surface ignitor should glow bright orange quickly. If it glows dimly or slowly, the ignitor is likely weak and should be replaced. Use a multimeter to check ignitor continuity and resistance (hot-surface ignitors often show low ohms but not open). If the ignitor glows normally but the gas never flows, the gas safety valve or oven control may be at fault. Measuring current draw (amps) on the ignitor while it’s glowing can help: a significantly reduced amp draw usually indicates a failing ignitor even if it glows.

Can I replace the ignitor myself and how much does it cost?

Yes, replacing a typical oven or range ignitor is a common DIY job if you’re comfortable disconnecting power and working with basic tools. Turn off power and gas before starting. Part costs commonly range from $20–$120 depending on brand and whether you need a harness or mounting parts. If the issue could be the gas valve or control board, labor for a professional repair can raise the total cost — expect $150–$400 for service and parts in many areas. If you smell gas or are unsure, call a qualified technician for safety.

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