GTW680BSJ6WS Lid Sensor (Lid Lock/Lid Switch) – What Part Fixes This Problem?
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Understanding the Problem
Brief explanation: The "lid sensor" on a Whirlpool GTW680BSJ6WS is the lid lock / lid switch assembly that tells the control the lid is closed and, on some cycles, physically locks the lid. When it fails the washer may not start, may not agitate or spin, may show lid-related error codes, or may stay locked. Below are clear diagnostic steps and a repair procedure. Diagnostic and repair steps (numbered): 1) Confirm the symptom and error codes - Note exact behavior: does washer refuse to start, won’t spin, won’t agitate, shows "lid" or "Ld" style errors, or the lid stays locked after cycle? Write down any error codes shown. 2) Basic checks before taking anything apart - Unplug the washer or turn off power at the breaker before testing or disassembly. - Inspect the lid latch area for obvious damage, broken plastic, or debris preventing the latch from engaging. - Open/close the lid several times and listen for the lock mechanism engaging (a click) when you start a cycle. 3) Test the lid lock electrically (multimeter required) - With power off, disconnect the lid lock connector at the top panel. Set a multimeter to continuity/ohms. - Check for continuity across the switch terminals (refer to wiring diagram if you have it). A completely open circuit may indicate a failed switch. - If available, with the washer powered and a cycle started, carefully back-probe the lock connector to see if the control is sending voltage to the lock during the lock step (use caution — live voltage present). No voltage from control plus no other faults may indicate a control problem; voltage present but no movement indicates a bad lock assembly. 4) Functional jump test (only if you know what you’re doing) - Some technicians briefly jumper the lock switch to confirm the machine will run without it. If the washer then runs, the lock assembly is failing to tell the control the lid is closed. Do not leave the machine operated long-term without a proper lock for safety reasons. 5) Replace the lid lock / switch assembly if failed - Tools: screwdriver set (Phillips, Torx if required), nut driver, needle-nose pliers. Replacement part: lid lock / lid switch assembly (model-specific). See parts section. - Procedure (typical for Whirlpool top-load): a) Unplug the washer. b) Open lid and remove any screws that secure the control panel or top panel at the back (on many Whirlpool top-loads you remove two screws at the back of the console or at the back of the top edge). Support the top as you remove screws; it may hinge back. c) Tilt the top forward/up to access the latch assembly at the front underside of the top panel. d) Disconnect the electrical harness from the lid lock/switch. e) Remove the mounting screws or clips holding the lock assembly and withdraw it from the top panel. f) Install the new lock assembly in reverse: secure with screws/clips, reconnect the harness, lower the top and re-secure screws. g) Restore power and run a quick cycle to confirm proper locking and operation. 6) If replacing doesn't fix it - Inspect wiring harness for damaged wires, burnt connectors, or loose crimps between the top panel and main control. A bad harness or control board can also cause lid errors. - If the control isn't sending voltage to the lock when it should, the main control board may be faulty. How to fix (practical how-to summary): - Confirm failure with visual inspection and a continuity test. - Replace the lid lock assembly with the correct model-specific replacement part and re-test. - If the new lock doesn't receive voltage during lock step, trace wiring or test the control board output. Safety note: Always disconnect power before working on the washer. When testing live voltage be extremely careful or hire a pro. Operating the washer without a functioning lid lock is a safety hazard—do not bypass permanently.
Common Symptoms
Washer won’t start or won’t enter spin/agitate, lid won’t lock, lid stays locked after cycle, "lid" or related error codes, audible clicking without locking.
Common Causes
- Failed lid lock / lid switch assembly (mechanical or electrical failure)
- Broken or obstructed latch/strike (mechanical damage)
- Wiring harness damage or loose connector to the lock
- Control board not sending lock signal (less common)
- Corrosion or debris in connector preventing contact
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
These are the most common replacement parts that fix this problem. When you're ready to order, click below to find the right part at ProsourceParts.com — just search by your appliance model number for a guaranteed fit.
Helpful Repair Tip
Quick confirmation: With power disconnected, unplug the lock connector and check continuity through the lock. Then run a cycle and carefully back-probe the connector to see if the control supplies voltage when the lock should engage—if there's voltage but no lock action, the lock assembly is bad.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I bypass the lid lock to make the washer run?
You can briefly jumper the lid switch to diagnose whether a failed lock is the cause, but bypassing the lid lock for normal use is unsafe and not recommended. The lid lock prevents the lid from opening during spin and protects against injury—replace the failed part instead.
How much will replacing the lid lock cost and how long does it take?
Part cost typically ranges from about $20–$70 depending on OEM vs aftermarket. Labor for a homeowner following the procedure is about 20–45 minutes. If hiring a technician expect labor of 30–60 minutes plus part cost. Exact pricing varies by region and part source.
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