GTW500ASN2WS Drain Pump – Diagnose, Test, and Replace the Pump
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Understanding the Problem
The drain pump in a GTW500ASN2WS removes the wash water from the tub and sends it out the drain hose. When the pump fails or is blocked the washer won’t drain or will drain slowly, may make loud noises during drain, or may leak. Below are step-by-step diagnostic and repair instructions you can follow to find and fix the problem. 1) Verify the symptom: Run a Drain & Spin or a spin-only cycle to confirm the washer won’t empty or makes abnormal noise during the drain step. Note any error codes or unusual noises. 2) Preliminary checks (fast, no tools): a. Unplug the washer or turn off the breaker. b. Check the standpipe/house drain for clogs. c. Inspect the drain hose for kinks or blockages; disconnect and blow through it to confirm it’s clear. d. Remove the small coin trap or accessible filter (if equipped) near the base to check for lint/coins. 3) Access the drain pump: a. Unplug the washer. b. On GTW500ASN2WS the pump is accessible from the cabinet base—remove the rear or lower front access panel depending on your unit (consult your manual if unsure). c. Place towels and a shallow tray under the pump area to catch residual water. 4) Inspect and clear debris: a. Look into the pump inlet and the hose connections for foreign objects (coins, socks, bra wires, debris). b. Disconnect the inlet/outlet hoses from the pump (have towels/bucket ready) and check for blockages in the hoses and pump housing. c. Manually spin the pump impeller (if reachable) to see if it turns freely. 5) Electrical checks: a. With the washer unplugged, disconnect the pump wiring harness and check the pump motor terminals for corrosion. b. Use a multimeter set to continuity/ohms: a healthy pump typically shows some low resistance (often tens to a few hundred ohms depending on model); an open circuit means the motor winding is broken. c. If you can safely run the washer: reconnect and start a drain cycle, then carefully measure for ~120 VAC (U.S.) at the pump connector during the drain step — if power is present but pump doesn’t run, pump is bad. If no power, the problem may be control board, lid switch, or wiring. 6) Replace the pump (how to fix): a. Buy the correct replacement pump (see parts list). b. Unplug the washer and turn off water (not required for pump but safe). c. Remove access panel, disconnect wiring harness and both pump hoses, and remove mounting screws or clips holding the pump. d. Transfer any mounting brackets or grommets to the new pump, install the new pump, reconnect hoses and wiring, reassemble panels. e. Run a drain cycle to confirm proper operation and check for leaks. 7) If problems persist: Check lid switch, drain pump control circuit, wiring continuity from control to pump, and possibly a drain pump relay on the control board. Safety note: Always disconnect power before opening the washer. Use gloves and eye protection when handling sharp sheet metal and dirty water. If you’re not comfortable testing live voltage, hire a qualified technician.
Common Symptoms
Washer won't drain or spins but water remains, slow draining, loud grinding or humming noise during drain, water leaking from bottom of washer, or intermittent draining.
Common Causes
- Pump clogged with debris (coins, fabric, lint, small clothing items)
- Pump motor failed (electrical winding or bearings)
- Blocked or kinked drain hose or house drain
- Faulty control board, lid switch, or wiring preventing power reaching pump
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
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Helpful Repair Tip
To confirm a bad pump: during a drain cycle measure for mains voltage at the pump connector. Power present + pump not running = replace pump. No power = check control, lid switch, and wiring first.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if the pump is electrically dead or just jammed?
First, disconnect power and try to spin the impeller by hand—if it’s stiff or blocked there’s a mechanical jam (clear debris). If it spins freely, do an electrical test: unplug the washer, disconnect the pump connector, and measure resistance across the pump motor terminals with a multimeter—an open circuit indicates a failed motor. For a live test, have the machine run a drain cycle and carefully measure for mains voltage at the pump connector; voltage present but no pump action means the pump needs replacement.
How long does it take and how much will replacing the pump cost?
Time: about 30–60 minutes for a competent DIYer (longer if the pump is hard to access or hoses are corroded). Cost: pump parts typically range $40–$120 depending on brand/OEM; add a small cost for grommets or hoses if needed. If you’re not comfortable working with live voltage or can’t find a compatible part number, hire a service technician.
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