Whirlpool GTW335ASN0WW (gtw335asnoww) – Common Problems and How to Fix Them
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Understanding the Problem
This guide covers the most common problems owners see with the Whirlpool GTW335ASN0WW top-load washer (often written as gtw335asnoww): machine won't start, won't fill correctly, won't drain or spin, excessive noise or vibration, and leaks. Below are step-by-step diagnostic and repair instructions you can follow at home. Before you replace any part, always run the diagnostic checks listed here so you know which component actually failed. 1) SAFETY FIRST - Unplug the washer and turn off the water supply before any inspection or repair. - If you must test with power on, keep hands clear of moving parts and use insulated tools. 2) QUICK PRE-CHECKS (do these before disassembly) - Verify the washer has power: try another outlet or test with a meter. - Check the lid is fully closed; many cycles won’t start if lid/latch is open or faulty. - Ensure water supply valves are fully open and hoses are not kinked. - Remove visible items from the drum that could block rotation (shoes, small items). 3) MACHINE WON'T START (no lights, no response) - Check household breaker or fuse and outlet with a meter. - Inspect the power cord for damage. - Try a reset: unplug 1 minute, plug back in. - If power present but no control action, the user interface/control board or main harness may be faulty. Check for visible burn marks or loose connectors at the control board. - How to fix: Replace failed control board or loose/charred wiring. Confirm by swapping with a known-good board or testing harness continuity. 4) LID LOCK / LID SWITCH PROBLEMS (washer won't start cycle or will stop mid-cycle) - Symptom: washer won't begin or stops when lid is closed or opens prematurely during spin. - Diagnostic: Unplug, remove the top panel, locate the lid lock/switch assembly and inspect for broken parts or burnt connectors. Use a multimeter to test for continuity with the lid closed. Also listen for the latch engaging when you start a cycle (you should hear a click). - How to fix: Replace the lid switch / lid lock assembly if it has no continuity or the latch motor fails to engage. Reassemble and retest. 5) WASHER WON'T FILL OR FILLS TOO SLOW/OVERFILLS - Check the water inlet hoses and screens for blockage and clean the inlet strainers on the valve(s). - Test the water inlet valve solenoids with a multimeter; they should show continuity (resistance value depends on valve). If valve does not open or one side doesn’t operate, replace the water inlet valve assembly. - If washer overfills or keeps filling, suspect a faulty water-level pressure switch (pressure sensor) or a collapsed/blocked air tube between the tub and pressure switch. Inspect and replace/clear as needed. 6) WASHER WON'T DRAIN OR WON'T SPIN - First, check the drain hose for kinks or clogs and the standpipe for blockages. - Inspect the drain pump: remove access panels, look for lodged debris (coins, small clothing) in the pump or impeller. Manually spin the impeller to ensure it rotates. - Test pump motor with power applied briefly (careful) or check continuity with a meter. If pump hums but won't move water it may be seized and needs replacement. - If pump OK, check drive system: some Whirlpool top-load models use a belt and coupler or direct-drive motor/transmission. Inspect the belt/coupler for damage and the motor for burnt smell/opens on a meter. - How to fix: Remove debris or replace the drain pump first (most common). If replacing motor or coupler, follow the replacement steps below. 7) EXCESSIVE NOISE OR VIBRATION - Inspect for worn bearings in the tub/transmission. If you hear grinding during spin, tub bearings or transmission may be failing. - Check suspension/shock absorbers and springs for wear or breakage; replace any worn shocks/springs and rebalance the load. - Remove object trapped between tub and outer tub (small item can make continuous knocking). 8) STEP-BY-STEP REPAIR EXAMPLE: REPLACING THE DRAIN PUMP - Unplug washer and turn off water. - Pull washer away from wall, remove access panel (usually front or back). Place towel and shallow pan for residual water. - Locate drain pump near bottom; disconnect harness and hose clamps (expect water). Inspect pump and remove debris if present. - If replacing, remove mounting screws, install new pump, reconnect hoses and electrical connector, secure clamps, replace panel. - Reconnect power and run a drain/spin test to confirm. 9) STEP-BY-STEP REPAIR EXAMPLE: TESTING/REPLACING LID SWITCH - Unplug washer. - Open lid and remove screws securing the console/top (follow your model’s service manual). Lift console to access lid switch. - Disconnect wiring harness and use multimeter to check continuity when lid is closed. If no continuity, replace switch assembly and retest. 10) CHECKING ERROR MESSAGES / DIAGNOSTIC MODE - Many Whirlpool washers can be placed in a diagnostic/test mode to read error codes and run components. Consult the model’s tech sheet (usually taped inside the console or behind the rear panel) for exact steps to enter diagnostics. The tech sheet also lists error code meanings and component test procedures. SAFETY NOTE: Always disconnect power before opening panels. Use a multimeter only if you are comfortable with electrical testing. If you are unsure about transmission, motor, or bearing replacement (heavy mechanical work), consider calling a professional technician. Verify part numbers for your exact model before ordering—they can vary by production date and region.
Common Symptoms
Washer won't start; won't fill or overfills; won't drain or spin; loud noise or banging during spin; washer vibrates excessively; intermittent stops mid-cycle.
Common Causes
- Faulty lid switch or lid lock assembly
- Clogged or failed drain pump or drain hose
- Faulty water inlet valve or pressure (water level) switch
- Drive components (motor, belt/coupler, transmission) worn or failed
- Worn suspension/shocks or tub bearings causing noise/vibration
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
These are the most common replacement parts that fix this problem. When you're ready to order, click below to find the right part at ProsourceParts.com — just search by your appliance model number for a guaranteed fit.
Helpful Repair Tip
Confirm a faulty drain pump by running a drain/spin cycle while listening closely: a humming/noise with no water movement usually means a seized pump or impeller jam. For lid issues, test the lid switch for continuity with the lid closed—no continuity equals a bad switch.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if the problem is the drain pump or the drain hose?
First inspect and clear the drain hose and standpipe of kinks or blockages. Then run a drain-only or drain/spin cycle and listen: if you hear the pump motor running (a hum or whine) but no water flows, the pump is likely jammed or failed. If nothing runs, check for power to the pump and test the pump for continuity — no continuity usually means pump replacement.
Can I replace the lid switch or drain pump myself?
Yes — both are common DIY repairs on this Whirlpool top-loader if you're comfortable removing panels and using basic hand tools. Always unplug the washer and shut off the water first. Follow the step-by-step examples above. For heavy jobs like transmission/tub bearing replacement, or if you’re not comfortable with electrical testing, call a qualified appliance technician.
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