GTW330ASK2WW Lid Lock Striker – What Part Fixes This Problem?
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Understanding the Problem
What the lid lock striker is and why it matters: The lid lock striker (sometimes called the lid strike or strike plate) is the small plastic/metal piece mounted on the underside/front edge of the washer lid that the lid latch/lock catches onto. If the striker is cracked, broken, worn or misaligned the lid won't engage the lock properly. Symptoms include the washer refusing to start, stopping mid‑cycle, or showing a lid‑locked/door error because the lock can't sense the striker. Step‑by‑step diagnostic and repair steps: 1) Tools & prep: You’ll typically need a Phillips screwdriver, small socket or nut driver set, a flashlight, and possibly a drill if rivets must be removed. Unplug the washer or switch off the breaker and turn off the water supply if you’ll be moving the machine. 2) Confirm the striker is the issue: Open the lid and visually inspect the striker for cracks, missing pieces, or deformation. With the lid open, press the lid lock latch on the cabinet (a small tab where the striker engages) with a flat screwdriver — if the lock mechanism clicks and the washer can be made to behave as if the lid is closed, the lock works and the striker is likely the problem. If the latch doesn’t click or you get no lock response, the lock assembly may be bad. 3) Check alignment: Close the lid slowly and watch how the striker meets the latch. If the striker rides over or misses the latch, it may simply be out of alignment. Try slightly bending the striker mounting (if metal) or loosening the mounting screws, repositioning the striker, and retightening. 4) Remove the striker: Open the lid. Remove the screws or fasteners holding the striker. Some models use screws; others use rivets. If rivets are used, drill out the rivets carefully and retain the new fasteners provided with the replacement striker. 5) Inspect mounting area: Check the lid edge and surrounding plastic for damage. If the lid edge where the striker mounts is cracked, you may need a lid replacement or to use a repair bracket. 6) Install the replacement striker: Position the new striker so the latch engages squarely. Use the supplied screws or rivets; if you drilled out rivets earlier, install new rivets or use the proper screws/lock washers recommended for your replacement part. Tighten screws snugly but do not overtighten plastic that could crack. 7) Test operation: With the washer still unplugged until mechanical work is done, manually operate the lid a few times to verify smooth engagement. Restore power and run a short spin/fill test or child lock test to confirm the washer recognizes the lid closed and will start. 8) Final checks: If the washer still will not start or shows an error after replacing the striker, check the lid lock/latch assembly (the electrical unit mounted on the cabinet edge) for wear or failed switches — the striker is passive and won’t cause electrical failure but can fail to trigger a bad lock. Safety note: Always disconnect power before working on electrical appliances. If rivets or drilling are required, wear eye protection. If you’re not comfortable with mechanical/fastener removal or testing electrical components, consider calling a service technician.
Common Symptoms
Washer won't start with lid closed; washer stops mid‑cycle and reports a lid/door error; lid doesn't latch flush; visible crack or missing chunk on the striker.
Common Causes
- Cracked, broken or worn plastic striker
- Striker mounted out of position (misalignment)
- Rivets or screws backing out or failing, letting striker move
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
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Helpful Repair Tip
To confirm the striker is the problem without removing it, close the lid and use a small flat screwdriver to press the lid lock actuator (on the cabinet) — if the washer starts or the lock LED reacts, the lock is good and the striker is likely worn or misaligned.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the lid strike the same as the lid lock?
No. The strike (striker) is a passive piece attached to the lid that the lock catches onto. The lid lock (or latch assembly) is the electrical/mechanical component mounted on the cabinet that senses and secures the lid. If the lock doesn’t engage it can be caused by either a bad striker or a bad lock; the simple test is to press the lock actuator manually — if it responds electrically, the striker is the likely fault.
How hard is it to replace and how long will it take?
Replacing a striker is usually an easy DIY job (10–30 minutes) if it’s screwed on. If the striker is riveted, allow extra time to drill out the rivets and fit new fasteners (20–60 minutes). Always unplug the washer first and verify the new striker is aligned so the lid lock engages smoothly.
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