GE Profile Ignitor — Bake Igniter Diagnosis & Replacement Guide

Understanding the Problem

What the ignitor is and why it fails: The GE Profile oven ignitor (also called the bake igniter or glow ignitor) is a hot-surface element that heats until it glows, then allows the oven's gas valve to open. Over time the ignitor weakens, cracks, or fails electrically and will not produce enough current to open the gas valve — the oven won't light or will light intermittently. Ignitors can also fail open (no glow) or short (rare). Step-by-step diagnostic and repair steps: 1) Confirm symptoms: If the bake burner doesn't light, or it takes a long time to light and/or the ignitor glows but the gas never flows, the ignitor is a primary suspect. Note whether the ignitor glows at all and whether the glow is bright or dim. 2) Safety first — power & gas: Turn OFF the oven at the breaker and, if possible, shut off the gas supply before you begin. This guide assumes you will re-energize briefly for live tests only when safe and capable. 3) Visual inspection: Remove oven racks and look at the ignitor assembly at the back of the oven. Check for cracks, chips, burn marks, brittle wires, or a broken mounting bracket. A visibly damaged element must be replaced. 4) Check for voltage at the ignitor (live test): With the oven set to BAKE and calling for heat, carefully restore power and measure voltage to the ignitor connector at the harness (use insulated tools and exercise caution). You should see about 120 VAC at the ignitor when the control calls for heat. If you see 120 VAC but the ignitor doesn't glow or glows very dimly, the ignitor is weak and should be replaced. If you see no voltage, the problem may be the oven control or safety valve circuit. 5) Resistance test (cold, power off): Disconnect power. Remove the ignitor connector and measure the cold resistance of the ignitor element with a multimeter. Typical cold resistance values for glow-bar ignitors commonly fall roughly in the 40–300 ohm range depending on model. A reading of infinite (open) or a dramatically different reading from the OEM spec indicates failure. (Always check your model's spec if available.) 6) Current draw test (advanced): A working hot ignitor typically draws enough current (often ~3–4 amps) to allow the gas valve to open. If the ignitor glows but current is too low it won't open the valve. This test requires an ammeter in series and is for experienced techs. 7) Inspect related components: If the ignitor checks OK and you have 120 VAC during the call-for-heat, inspect the gas safety valve and oven control board. If no voltage is present at the ignitor circuit when the oven is calling for heat, the control board or wiring may be at fault. How to replace the ignitor (general procedure — model variations exist): 1) Gather parts and tools: replacement ignitor (match OEM or exact fit), screwdriver set, nut drivers, multimeter, gloves, safety glasses. 2) Cut power and gas: Turn off electrical power at the breaker and shut off the gas supply. 3) Remove the oven door if needed (consult your model manual) and remove oven racks for access. 4) Access the ignitor: Remove the lower access panel or rear panel inside the oven (usually held with screws) to expose the ignitor and burner tube. 5) Disconnect the ignitor: Unplug the ignitor wiring connector. If it's crimped or soldered, remove connectors as necessary. Note connector orientation. 6) Remove mounting screws: Unscrew the ignitor mounting bracket (usually two screws) and gently pull the ignitor out of its bracket. Be careful — the element is fragile. 7) Install the new ignitor: Position the new ignitor in the bracket, secure the mounting screws, and reconnect the wiring connector exactly as it was. 8) Reassemble and restore gas/power: Replace internal panels, racks, and oven door. Restore gas supply and power at the breaker. 9) Test: Set oven to BAKE and observe the ignitor. It should begin glowing within a few seconds and the burner should ignite within 30–90 seconds depending on model. If it does not, re-check voltage and wiring. Safety note: Always disconnect electric power before working on an appliance except when performing a specific live-voltage test. Working on gas appliances has additional hazards — if you're not comfortable confirming gas shutoff, leak-free reconnection, or performing live electrical tests, hire a qualified appliance technician.

Common Symptoms

Oven won't light on bake, bake burner never ignites, ignitor does not glow, ignitor glows but oven never reaches temperature, long ignition delays, clicking or repeated ignition attempts.

Common Causes

• Worn or cracked bake ignitor (most common)
• Open or high-resistance ignitor filament (electrical failure)
• No 120 VAC supplied to ignitor (faulty control board or wiring)
• Faulty gas safety valve (won't open even with good ignitor)
• Broken ignitor mount or damaged harness/connectors

Popular Parts That Fix This Problem

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Frequently Asked Questions