GE JGBS66REK2SS Igniter Not Working – What Part Fixes This Problem?
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Understanding the Problem
The JGBS66REK2SS uses spark electrodes and an ignition control module for the cooktop burners and a hot-surface (glow) oven igniter for the oven burner. If a burner won’t spark, clicks repeatedly without lighting, or will only light with a match, the fault is usually in the spark electrode(s), the ignition module, the burner switch, wiring/grounding, or a clogged burner cap. If the oven won’t light but the igniter glows (or does not glow), the oven igniter or the oven safety valve is likely at fault. Start with simple checks (clean burner ports and caps, ensure power and gas supply are on). For electrical tests you’ll need a multimeter and basic mechanical skills. Always shut off the mains power and gas before disconnecting components. Diagnosing by visual observation (is there a spark? does the module click?) combined with basic voltage/continuity checks will point to the part that needs replacing.
Common Symptoms
No spark at cooktop burners, clicking but no ignition, continuous clicking after flame lights, burners light only with a match, oven won’t light or oven igniter won’t glow.
Common Causes
- Damaged or fouled spark electrode (burner igniter)
- Failed ignition control module / spark module
- Faulty burner (infinite) switch or wiring causing no signal to module
- Clogged burner ports or misaligned burner cap preventing gas/air mixture
- Weak or failed oven hot-surface igniter or failed gas safety valve
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
These are the most common replacement parts that fix this problem. When you're ready to order, click below to find the right part at ProsourceParts.com — just search by your appliance model number for a guaranteed fit.
Helpful Repair Tip
To confirm the faulty part: remove the burner grate and turn the knob while watching for a visible blue spark at the electrode. If you hear a click but no spark, test for 120 VAC at the ignition module output while the knob is turned (use a multimeter). If the electrode sparks, but gas won’t flow, the valve/valve coil is likely bad. For the oven, if the igniter glows but the oven won't light, measure the igniter's amp draw (spec varies) or check if it reaches full bright glow — a weak igniter often needs replacement.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my range keep clicking even after the burner lights?
Continuous clicking after ignition usually means the spark module is still getting a signal (the switch isn’t telling it to stop) or the module itself is failing. First check that the burner cap is seated correctly and that the flame actually reaches and holds the flame sensor area. If the burner is fine and the module keeps driving the electrode, replace the ignition control module or the affected infinite switch.
Can I safely use a match or lighter until I get the part?
Temporarily lighting a burner with a match is possible but not recommended as a permanent solution. If you do use a match, take extra safety precautions: turn off the electric ignition, light the match before opening the gas, and keep a clear workspace. For the oven, avoid using a match unless you know the oven cavity and gas valve area are safe and you follow the manufacturer’s safety guidance. The safer long-term fix is to diagnose and replace the faulty igniter or ignition component.
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