GE JGBP28EEM2WH Bake Igniter – What Part Fixes This Problem?

Understanding the Problem

The bake igniter (hot-surface igniter) in a GE JGBP28EEM2WH is the component that heats up and signals the gas valve to open so the oven lights. When it fails or weakens the oven will not light, will take a very long time to heat, or the igniter won't glow at all. Below are step-by-step diagnostics and repair instructions. 1) Confirm the symptom - Symptom examples: oven won't light, long preheat time, igniter doesn't glow, or gas smell if valve is opening incorrectly. Double-check the exact behavior before starting. 2) Safety first - Turn off the electrical power to the range at the breaker. Shut off the gas supply at the shutoff valve. Verify power is off with a non-contact voltage tester. 3) Visual inspection - Remove the oven bottom or the rear access panel (model dependent) to view the igniter. Look for visible cracks, broken glass, or burn-through on the igniter bulb or damaged wiring/connectors. 4) Glow test (simple live test) - With power and gas on (perform only if you are comfortable and take extreme caution): set oven to Bake and watch through the oven window. A healthy igniter should glow bright orange within 15–30 seconds. If it never glows or is very dim the igniter is weak or failed. - If you see a gas smell or gas flow without ignition, shut everything off immediately and do not operate the oven. 5) Resistance test (multimeter) - With power OFF and range unplugged, disconnect the igniter wiring harness. Measure cold resistance across the igniter terminals with a multimeter. Typical hot-surface igniters will read in the tens to a few hundred ohms (commonly ~40–400 Ω depending on design). An open circuit (OL) means a failed element. Very high or infinite resistance indicates failure. A short (near 0 Ω) is also a failure. 6) Current draw test (advanced) - The most reliable test is measuring amperage when the igniter is operating: a working igniter draws enough current to open the safety gas valve (commonly around 2–4 A depending on model). If the igniter glows but doesn’t draw required current the gas valve won’t open — replace the igniter. 7) Decide to replace - If the igniter is cracked, shows open circuit, is very dim when powered, or fails the current test, replace it. If wiring or harness is damaged, replace or repair that as well. 8) Replacement steps (general) - Tools: screwdriver set, nut driver, multimeter, needle-nose pliers, replacement igniter, heat-resistant gloves. - a) Disconnect power and gas again for safety. - b) Access the igniter: For many GE ranges you’ll remove the oven bottom and/or rear access panel. On some slide-in models you access from the front after removing the oven door or the bottom panel. - c) Disconnect the igniter harness: unplug or cut connectors as needed (note how wires connect). If connectors are crimped, use replacement connectors or the new harness. - d) Remove mounting screws that hold the igniter bracket to the burner box and slide igniter out of the burner opening. - e) Install new igniter: position new igniter into burner opening, secure screws, reconnect harness (match polarity if applicable), and reassemble panels. - f) Restore gas and power, then test: set oven to Bake and confirm the igniter glows and the oven lights within ~30 seconds and reaches set temperature in normal time. 9) Final checks - Monitor first few cycles for consistent ignition. Check for any gas odor. If ignition is inconsistent or you smell gas, shut off the appliance, vent the area, and call a professional. Safety note: If you are not comfortable working with gas appliances or electrical wiring, or you detect any gas leak, stop and hire a qualified appliance or gas service technician. Always shut off both power and gas before servicing.

Common Symptoms

Oven won't light; igniter doesn't glow; very long preheat times; oven cycles on and off or never reaches set temperature.

Common Causes

• Failed or cracked hot-surface igniter element
• Damaged wiring or corroded connector between igniter and control
• Igniter draws insufficient current (weak element) preventing gas valve from opening

Popular Parts That Fix This Problem

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Frequently Asked Questions