Gas Dryer Coil (Gas Valve Solenoid) – What Part Fixes No-Heat / Clicking?

Understanding the Problem

What this part is and why it matters: The "gas dryer coil" usually refers to the gas valve solenoid coil(s) that pull open the gas valve so gas flows to the burner assembly. When one or more coils fail the valve won't open even though the igniter glows, or you'll hear a click but no flame. Below are step-by-step diagnostics and repair actions. 1) Symptoms check (quick): If the dryer tumbles but does not heat, you hear a rapid click at the dryer when it should light, or the igniter glows then goes out without flame, suspect the gas valve coils. Also inspect for a gas smell—stop and call a pro if you detect gas. 2) Tools & prep: Multimeter (or continuity tester), nut drivers/screwdrivers, socket set, needle-nose pliers, replacement coil kit (OEM recommended), adjustable wrench, soapy water for leak check, gloves, safety glasses. 3) Safety first: Unplug dryer from electrical outlet and shut off the gas supply valve before opening the cabinet. Never work on a gas appliance with the gas on. Vent the area and keep a fire extinguisher nearby. 4) Access the coils: Remove the dryer's back panel or front/bottom access panel (varies by model) to expose the burner assembly. The gas valve and its coils sit at the inlet of the burner tube — usually 2–3 small rectangular solenoid coils stacked on the valve body. 5) Visual inspection: Look for cracked coils, burns, melted insulation, soot, or broken wire terminals. Smell for burnt plastic. If coils look damaged, replacement is likely required. 6) Electrical checks: a) With power still disconnected, disconnect the coil wiring harness and use a multimeter set to continuity or resistance to test each coil. An open (infinite) reading = bad coil. If you get a measurable resistance it may be good; compare coils if the kit has multiple coils — they should be similar. b) If you see short-to-ground (continuity to valve body), the coil is bad. c) Optional: Test igniter and flame sensor first — if igniter never glows, diagnose ignition circuit first. If igniter glows then goes out, coils are suspect. 7) Mechanical check: Ensure the gas valve assembly is secure and the plunger (when visible) can move. A stuck valve or debris can prevent operation even with good coils. 8) Replace the coil(s): If coils fail tests or show physical damage, replace them: a) Obtain the correct coil kit for your dryer model (manufacturer part number or OEM kit). b) Turn off gas and electricity. Remove screws securing the old coils and pull them straight off the valve posts. Note wire locations or photograph before removal. c) Install new coils onto the valve posts, secure bracket if provided, and reconnect wiring exactly as before. d) Reassemble panels, turn gas back on, and check all connections for leaks with soapy water. 9) Final tests: Restore power. Run a test cycle and observe: igniter should glow, gas should flow and light, and burner flame should remain stable. If still no flame but igniter glows, re-check wiring, continuity, and control board outputs. If you smell gas or see abnormal operation, shut off gas and power immediately and call a professional. Safety note: Working on gas appliances carries risk of fire, explosion and carbon monoxide. If you're not comfortable, or if you smell gas at any point, stop and contact a licensed appliance tech or gas utility immediately.

Common Symptoms

Dryer tumbles but no heat; clicking noise or loud click at ignition time; igniter glows then goes out without flame; intermittent heating; burnt/melted coil housing or electrical smell.

Common Causes

• One or more gas valve solenoid coils have failed (open or shorted)
• Wiring or connector damage to the coil harness
• Igniter or flame sensor failures creating the appearance of coil problems
• Mechanical sticking of the gas valve or internal debris
• Faulty control board not supplying voltage to the coils

Popular Parts That Fix This Problem

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Frequently Asked Questions