FRS6HF6JB0 Evaporator — What It Does, Symptoms, and How to Fix or Replace It
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Understanding the Problem
What the evaporator is and why it matters: The evaporator coil in your Frigidaire FRS6HF6JB0 is the cold coil inside the freezer compartment that absorbs heat from the cabinet. If the evaporator, its fan, or its defrost system fails, the fridge/freezer will lose cooling or ice up. Below are practical diagnostic and repair steps, moving from simple checks to more complex work. 1) Preliminary checks (quick and safe): a. Unplug the refrigerator before doing internal inspections. Leave the fridge powered off if you need to access the evaporator compartment. b. Remove items from the freezer and take out the rear inner panel to expose the evaporator (usually held by screws and clips). Expect accumulated frost or ice if defrost failed. 2) Visual inspection: a. Look for heavy ice/frost covering the entire evaporator coil — this indicates a defrost failure. b. Look for oil residue or punctures on the coil — signs of a refrigerant leak (sealed system failure). c. Inspect wiring connectors for burns, corrosion or disconnected leads (especially at the heater, thermostat or fan). 3) Check evaporator fan operation: a. With the door closed and the fridge powered on, the fan should run when the compressor runs. If the fan is dead or noisy, it will reduce airflow and cooling. b. Test the fan motor with a multimeter for continuity and/or apply 120VAC (carefully) to verify it runs. Replace if it fails to start or is noisy. 4) Diagnose defrost system (most common cause of full-ice): a. Locate the defrost heater(s) mounted along or behind the evaporator. Use an ohmmeter to check continuity — a good heater will show low ohms; an open reading means replace the heater. b. Check the defrost thermostat/thermistor for continuity when cold (it should close at low temps). If it’s open when it should be closed, replace it. c. If defrost components have continuity but the unit still doesn’t defrost, the defrost control board/timer or main control board may be at fault — check for voltage to the heater during an active defrost cycle (requires knowledge of control behavior). 5) Check for refrigerant leak / sealed system issues: a. If the evaporator has minimal frost and the compressor runs but the fridge doesn’t cool, or you find oily residue on the coil, the sealed system likely has a leak. b. Sealed-system repairs (evaporator replacement, brazing, vacuum and refrigerant recharge) require certified HVAC/refrigeration service — not recommended for DIY. 6) Basic repair/replacement steps (parts that homeowners commonly replace): a. Evaporator fan motor: Disconnect power, remove rear freezer panel, unplug fan connector, remove mounting screws, swap the motor, reconnect and test. b. Defrost heater: With power off, access the heater by removing the evaporator cover, remove heater clips/screws, install new heater, reassemble. Verify continuity before powering on. c. Defrost thermostat/thermistor: Unplug white connector, remove clip or screw, replace with OEM part, secure and reassemble. 7) Evaporator coil replacement (advanced/sealed-system): a. If coil is leaking or damaged, replacement involves evacuating refrigerant, cutting or brazing refrigerant lines, installing a new evaporator, evacuating to deep vacuum, and recharging with the correct refrigerant and oil. b. This work must be performed by a licensed appliance/refrigeration technician — it requires specialized equipment and compliance with refrigerant regulations. Safety note: Always disconnect power before working on the refrigerator. For sealed-system work (brazing, vacuuming, recharging refrigerant) use a licensed technician. Beware of sharp sheet metal and pinch points when removing panels.
Common Symptoms
Freezer or fridge not cooling, heavy frost/ice build-up on the freezer back panel, evaporator fan not running or noisy, frequent compressor run time, ice maker not producing, visible oil on coils (possible refrigerant leak).
Common Causes
- Defrost system failure (bad defrost heater, defrost thermostat/thermistor, or defrost control board)
- Evaporator fan motor failed or obstructed
- Sealed-system leak or damaged evaporator coil
- Blocked airflow from ice buildup or obstructed vents
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Helpful Repair Tip
Confirm the faulty part by manually defrosting (turn off power for 24 hours) — if performance returns temporarily, the defrost system (heater, thermostat, or control) is likely the issue; if not, suspect a sealed-system leak or faulty compressor/valving.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I replace the evaporator coil myself?
Replacing the evaporator coil on a sealed refrigeration system is advanced: it requires recovering refrigerant legally, brazing or replacing sealed lines, pulling a vacuum, and recharging with refrigerant. For safety, legal compliance, and proper performance, hire a licensed refrigeration technician. Simple related parts like the evaporator fan, defrost heater, or thermostat are often DIY-replaceable if you are comfortable with basic tools and disconnecting power.
How can I tell if the problem is the defrost system or a refrigerant leak?
If the evaporator is completely iced over and manually defrosting restores cooling temporarily, the defrost system (heater, thermostat, or control) is the likely culprit. If the evaporator has little or no frost yet the compressor runs but cooling is weak, or you find oily residue on the coil, suspect a refrigerant leak or sealed-system failure — that requires a pro.
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