Frigidaire Gallery FGHB2867TFO Ice Maker (242253002) – What Part Fixes This Problem?
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Understanding the Problem
What this part is: 242253002 is a replacement ice maker assembly used in many Frigidaire / Frigidaire Gallery refrigerators (including FGHB-series models). It contains the motor/gearbox, mold thermostat, ejector arms and water-fill cup assembly that make and harvest ice. Diagnostic steps (numbered): 1. Confirm the symptom: no ice production, no fill, continuous water, overflowing, or small/hollow cubes. Note whether the dispenser still delivers water (if equipped). 2. Check water supply: ensure the house shutoff to the fridge is open and supply hose isn’t kinked. If the fridge has an external inline filter, replace it or remove it temporarily to rule out a clogged filter. 3. Check freezer temperature: ideal range for ice production is about 0°F (–18°C). If the freezer is warmer than ~5°F (–15°C) the ice maker may not cycle. Adjust thermostat and allow 24 hours if you change temperature. 4. Inspect the fill tube: remove ice bin and look up into the fill tube while the freezer is cold — if the tube is blocked with ice, thaw it with warm (not boiling) water or a hair dryer on low; blocked tube prevents filling. 5. Listen for the inlet valve during a fill cycle: place your ear near the back bottom of the fridge while starting a harvest/test cycle. You should hear a click and water run. If you hear nothing, suspect the valve or wiring. If you hear the valve but no water, the valve may be clogged or failing. 6. Try an ice maker cycle/test: many Frigidaire ice makers have a test switch or you can manually advance the motor (carefully) to start a harvest. Locate the test switch on the ice maker and press per your manual, or gently rotate the motor cam with a flat screwdriver to initiate a harvest. If the unit does not motorize but receives power, the ice maker assembly itself is likely bad. 7. Check electrical connections and voltage: with the unit unplugged then reconnected and in a test cycle, check that the harness at the ice maker receives voltage during the harvest/fill stages (use a multimeter). If control board/thermostat is sending voltage but the ice maker does not run, replace the ice maker assembly (242253002). 8. Inspect the ice maker thermostat/harvest heater: if the mold thermostat or heater fails the unit may not release ice. In many cases replacing the full ice maker assembly (242253002) is easier and more reliable than replacing individual small components. Step‑by‑step replacement (how to fix it): Tools needed: flathead and Phillips screwdrivers, 1/4" or 5/16" nut driver, needle‑nose pliers, towel/bucket, and a multimeter (recommended). 1. Safety first: unplug the refrigerator and shut off the water supply at the valve behind the unit. 2. Remove ice bin and any trim or covers blocking the ice maker. Keep a towel handy for water spills. 3. Locate mounting screws (usually two) holding the ice maker to the freezer wall bracket. Remove these screws with the appropriate driver or nut driver. 4. Slide the ice maker down and out a few inches to access the electrical harness. Depress the harness clip and pull the connector out; also remove the water fill tube from the ice maker if it has a quick‑connect fitting. 5. Remove the old ice maker completely. Inspect the bracket and fill cup for cracks or damage — replace bracket hardware if worn. 6. Install the new ice maker (242253002) by reversing removal steps: connect the electrical harness firmly, reattach the fill tube, position the unit on its mounting bracket and fasten mounting screws snugly. 7. Restore power and water: turn on the water supply and plug the fridge back in. Check for leaks at the fill tube connection. 8. Initiate a test cycle: use the ice maker test switch or manually advance the cam to force a harvest/fill and confirm the new unit runs and fills. Expect the first fill to occur immediately or at the next cycle; full ice production (a full bin) typically takes 24–48 hours depending on temperature and usage. Safety note: always disconnect power and water before working on the refrigerator. Avoid forcing plastic parts; if connectors or clips feel stuck, check for hidden screws rather than prying. If you are not comfortable working with electrical testing equipment, consult a qualified appliance technician.
Common Symptoms
No ice production, ice maker not filling, continuous water running into freezer, ice maker not cycling, small or hollow cubes, loud clicking or grinding noises from ice maker.
Common Causes
- Failed ice maker module/gear motor or mold thermostat inside the ice maker assembly (242253002)
- Clogged/failed water inlet valve or kinked/blocked water supply/fill tube
- Freezer temperature too warm or electrical/wiring problem from the control board to the ice maker
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Helpful Repair Tip
To confirm the ice maker is bad before replacing it: put the fridge in a manual test/harvest cycle. If the control sends power to the ice maker but the motor doesn’t turn or the mold heater never energizes, the ice maker assembly (242253002) is likely faulty.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long after replacing the ice maker will I have ice?
The new ice maker will usually perform a fill immediately during its next cycle; expect the first usable cubes within 4–8 hours depending on freezer temp. A full ice bin typically takes 24–48 hours to build up under normal conditions.
Can I replace the ice maker myself and how long does it take?
Yes — replacing the ice maker is a common DIY job for a confident homeowner. Plan about 20–45 minutes: power/water off, remove bin, unmount old unit, swap the harness and fill tube, mount the new unit, then restore power/water and test. If you’re uncomfortable with electrical checks or locating the fill connection, consider a service call.
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