Frigidaire Dryer AEQ8700FSO Heating Element – What Part Fixes This Problem?
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Understanding the Problem
What this part does: The heating element (heating coil/element assembly) generates the hot air inside an electric dryer. If it fails, the dryer may produce no heat, only slightly warm air, or overheat and trip safety cutouts. Follow these steps to diagnose and replace it. 1) Preliminary checks a. Confirm model and power: Verify your dryer is the AEQ8700FSO (check the model tag inside the door or on the cabinet) and that the home electrical supply is 240V (check outlet/power with a voltmeter or an electrician). A missing leg of 240V often causes "no heat" while drum still tumbles. b. Inspect venting: Remove lint filter and feel airflow with the dryer running on Air-only. Clogged vents cause long dry times — clear vent if restricted. 2) Visual inspection a. Unplug the dryer or turn off the breaker(s) feeding the dryer. b. Remove the rear panel (or front panel depending on your model) to access the element housing. Look for broken wires, burnt connectors, or visibly broken/coiled heating wire. c. Check for signs of overheating: melted insulation, scorch marks, or accumulated lint inside the element housing. 3) Electrical tests (use a multimeter) a. Test the heating element for continuity: With power off and leads removed from the element terminals, place multimeter leads on the element terminals. A healthy element typically shows continuity (low ohms). An open/infinite reading means the element coil is broken and must be replaced. b. Test the thermal fuse/thermal cutoff: Locate the thermal fuse on the blower housing (or near the element housing) and test for continuity. A blown thermal fuse will be open and must be replaced. c. Test the high-limit thermostat(s) and cycling thermostat(s): Check continuity — an open thermostat where it should be closed indicates failure. d. Check incoming voltage at the terminal block (if comfortable and safe): With the dryer running and door switch engaged (or with the dryer on), measure across the two hot terminals — you should see ~240V. If you only see ~120V, one hot leg is missing. 4) Which parts to check first a. Thermal fuse/thermal cutoff – common failure and inexpensive to replace. b. Heating element assembly – obvious if open or visually damaged. c. High limit thermostat / cycling thermostat – these can open if the element overheats. d. Door switch and wiring harness – less common but can prevent the dryer from cycling heat properly. 5) Replacement steps for the heating element assembly (typical AEQ-style Frigidaire electric dryer) Tools needed: multimeter, nut driver/screwdrivers, needle-nose pliers, putty knife (for front panel clips), replacement element, safety glasses. a. Safety first: Unplug dryer or turn OFF the house circuit breakers feeding the dryer. b. Access the element: Depending on your model, remove the rear panel or the front panel/top to reach the element housing. For many Frigidaire dryers remove the back panel by unscrewing 6–8 screws. c. Photograph wiring: Take clear photos of the wire routing and terminal locations before disconnecting anything. d. Disconnect wires: Remove the quick-disconnect terminals from the element and from thermostats/thermal fuse as needed. Use pliers and be gentle to avoid damaging connectors. e. Remove mounting screws/clips: Unscrew the element housing from the cabinet and slide the element assembly out. Be careful of sharp sheet metal. f. Install new element: Position the new element assembly into the housing, secure with screws, and reconnect all wires exactly as original (consult your photos). Replace any worn connectors. g. Reassemble: Reinstall the panel(s), restore power and run a short cycle to verify the dryer heats and there are no unusual noises. 6) If dryer still has no heat after replacing the element a. Re-check thermal fuse and thermostats — replace any open parts. b. Confirm proper 240V supply to the dryer. c. Check the timer or electronic control for proper operation (less common cause). Safety note: Always disconnect power before accessing internal dryer parts. Thermal fuses and thermostats are safety devices; replacing the heating element without addressing why a thermostat or fuse blew can create a fire hazard. If you are not comfortable with live-voltage checks or disassembly, hire a qualified appliance technician.
Common Symptoms
Dryer tumbles but produces no heat; only slightly warm air; takes excessively long to dry; burning smell or visible broken heating coil; dryer trips thermal fuse.
Common Causes
- Broken heating element coil (open circuit)
- Blown thermal fuse or high-limit thermostat caused by overheating
- Loss of one 120V leg (no full 240V supply)
- Restricted venting causing overheating and tripping cutouts
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Helpful Repair Tip
Verify the heating element is bad by removing its leads and checking continuity with a multimeter — an open (infinite) reading means the element is failed. Also inspect for visible broken coils or scorch marks.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I test the dryer heating element?
Unplug the dryer. Access the element terminals and remove wires. Set a multimeter to continuity or low ohms and measure across the element terminals. A good element will read a low resistance (model-dependent); an infinite/open reading means the coil is broken and the element needs replacement. Also visually inspect the coil for breaks or scorching.
How much does replacing the heating element cost and how long does it take?
Part cost typically runs $40–$150 depending on OEM vs aftermarket. If you do the work yourself, plan 45–90 minutes for diagnosis and replacement. Professional repair labor can add $100–$200 depending on service rates and travel.
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