Electric Burner Not Heating – What Part Fixes This Problem?
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Understanding the Problem
When an electric burner (coil or radiant element) fails to heat or only reaches low temperatures it can be caused by a failed surface element, a faulty infinite switch, a bad terminal block/connection, wiring damage, or a problem with the control board or power supply. The same symptom—no heat or inconsistent heat—can come from multiple components, so diagnosis by testing is important before replacing parts. Most of these failures are either electrical (loss of continuity, open circuit) or mechanical (damaged contacts or connectors). Simple tests — swapping a working element between sockets, checking element continuity with a multimeter, and verifying voltage to the burner receptacle — will usually pinpoint whether the element itself is bad or the problem is upstream (switch, wiring, or board).
Common Symptoms
One burner won’t heat at all; burner cycles but only produces low heat; elements glow unevenly (for radiant) or never glow; breaker trips when burner is used; erratic temperature control.
Common Causes
- Open or failed surface burner element (broken internal conductor)
- Faulty infinite control switch (temperature/heat selector switch)
- Loose or burned terminal block/connector or damaged wiring
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
These are the most common replacement parts that fix this problem. When you're ready to order, click below to find the right part at ProsourceParts.com — just search by your appliance model number for a guaranteed fit.
Helpful Repair Tip
To confirm the faulty part, first swap the suspect burner element with a known-working element in another socket. If the swapped element heats, the original socket/switch or wiring is the problem; if the swapped element also fails, the element is likely bad. Use a multimeter to check continuity on the element and to verify 240V (or appropriate voltage) at the element terminal when the burner is commanded on.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I test an electric burner element to see if it's bad?
Unplug power or turn off breaker. Remove the element (or access terminals for a radiant element) and test for continuity with a multimeter set to ohms. A good element will show low resistance (typically a few ohms to a few dozen ohms depending on element size). An open (infinite) reading means the element is broken and should be replaced. Also inspect terminals and connectors for burning or corrosion.
Can I replace the burner element myself and is it expensive?
Yes — replacing a surface coil or a radiant element is a common DIY repair and usually straightforward: turn off power, remove the element or glass surface per instructions, unplug and swap parts. Surface coil elements and terminal blocks are inexpensive (often $20–$80). Infinite switches and control boards are pricier ($30–$200+). Always match parts to your exact cooktop model and turn off power at the breaker before working on the appliance.
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