Dryer Heating Element Replacement – What Part Fixes This Problem?
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Understanding the Problem
A dryer heating element is the coil assembly that creates the heat used to dry clothes. When it fails the dryer tumbles but produces little or no heat, or takes a very long time to dry. 1) Preliminary checks a) Confirm symptom: dryer runs but no/low heat, long drying times, or trips breaker. Note whether it’s an electric or gas dryer — electric dryers have an element; gas dryers rely on a burner assembly. b) Check power: For electric dryers verify the unit is getting full voltage (240V split-phase). A lost leg will cause no heat but drum motor still runs. For gas dryers ensure the gas supply is on and igniter glows. 2) Tools you’ll need - Multimeter (continuity/ohms and voltage) - Nut drivers and screwdrivers (Phillips and flat) - Work gloves and safety glasses - Putty knife (for front-panel clips on some models) 3) Visual inspection a) Unplug the dryer (and shut off gas if gas dryer). b) Remove the rear access panel (or front panel on some models) to expose the heating element housing. c) Look for visible breaks in the coil, burn marks, melted insulation or loose/burned wire terminals. 4) Electrical tests (confirm a bad heating element) a) Set multimeter to ohms/continuity. With power disconnected, disconnect the wires from the element terminals. b) Measure continuity across the element terminals: most elements read in the low tens of ohms (typical range ~10–50 Ω depending on model). If you get OL (open), the element is broken and must be replaced. c) Check for short to ground: place one lead on an element terminal and the other on the metal housing; reading should be OL (no continuity). Any continuity to ground means a shorted element and replacement is required. d) If the element checks good, test the thermal fuse and high-limit thermostat for continuity — an open thermal fuse will also cause no heat. 5) Replace the heating element (step-by-step) a) Order the correct replacement element for your dryer model (see parts below). b) Unplug dryer and move it so you can access the back or front as required. c) Remove the necessary panels to reach the element housing. Note screw locations and wires; take photos to help reassembly. d) Label and disconnect the wires from the old element. Remove any screws/clips holding the element housing and pull the old element out. e) Install the new element into the housing making sure it seats correctly and any mounting tabs align. Reattach mounting screws/clips. f) Reconnect the wires to the correct terminals (match photos/labels). Replace panels and secure all screws. g) Restore power (and gas if applicable) and run a test cycle. Verify heat production and normal operation. 6) If dryer still won’t heat after replacing element - Re-check voltage at the dryer (electric): must have ~240V across the two hot legs and 120V from each hot leg to neutral. If voltage is correct, test thermostats, thermal fuse, timer/ignition and wiring continuity. A faulty thermal fuse, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, or control board can also prevent heat. Safety note: Always unplug the dryer (and shut off gas for gas models) before working on it. If you’re not comfortable working with mains voltage or gas components, hire a qualified technician.
Common Symptoms
Dryer tumbles but produces no heat or only weak heat; clothes take very long to dry; circuit breaker trips when dryer runs; visible breaks or burn marks on the heater coil.
Common Causes
- Broken or burned-out heating coil inside the element assembly
- Short to ground in the element (element touching housing)
- Related component failure: thermal fuse, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, or blown fuse/household breaker
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
These are the most common replacement parts that fix this problem. When you're ready to order, click below to find the right part at ProsourceParts.com — just search by your appliance model number for a guaranteed fit.
Helpful Repair Tip
Use a multimeter to check continuity across the element and from element terminals to the metal housing. Open (OL) across the element means it’s blown; any continuity to ground means it’s shorted and must be replaced.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I replace the heating element myself?
Yes — if you’re comfortable disconnecting power, removing dryer panels and using a multimeter. Turn off power (and gas if applicable), label wires, take photos for reassembly, and follow the replacement steps above. If you’re unsure about electrical or gas work, hire a pro.
How do I know if the thermal fuse or the heating element is the problem?
Test both with a multimeter. The heating element should read continuity across its terminals (typically 10–50 Ω). The thermal fuse should read continuity (closed) if good; if it’s open, it will read OL and must be replaced. If the element tests okay but the thermal fuse is open, replace the thermal fuse and verify why it blew (overheating or blocked venting).
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