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Burner on Range Won't Heat – What Part Fixes This Problem?

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Understanding the Problem

A single burner on a range that refuses to heat can be caused by different failures depending on whether your appliance is electric or gas. On electric ranges the most common failures are a burned-out surface element, a bad surface (infinite) switch, or a loose/failed terminal connection. On gas ranges the issue is usually a clogged burner port, a failing igniter (spark or glow type), or a defective gas valve/solenoid that won't let gas flow to that burner. Before replacing parts, run a few quick checks. For electric coils you can often swap the suspected coil with another coil on the cooktop (if they are identical) to see if the problem moves with the part. For gas ranges, listen for the spark or watch for the glow igniter when the knob is turned; if you get clicking but no flame, the igniter or gas valve may be at fault. Always disconnect power (and turn off gas for gas ranges) before inspecting wiring or removing components.

Common Symptoms

One burner does not produce heat at all while other burners work normally; on gas ranges you may hear clicking without a flame or see no spark; on electric ranges the element won’t glow or shows no continuity when tested.

Common Causes

  • Burned-out surface element (electric coil or radiant element)
  • Faulty infinite/surface switch or failed igniter (gas)
  • Loose or damaged power/terminal connection or clogged burner ports (gas)

Popular Parts That Fix This Problem

These are the most common replacement parts that fix this problem. When you're ready to order, click below to find the right part at PartsDiscount.com — just search by your appliance model number for a guaranteed fit.

Varies by model — check model number. Example/common OEM numbers: WB30K10003 (GE style radiant elemeSurface burner element (electric coil or radiant element)
Varies by model — check model number. Example/common OEM number: WB24T10068Infinite / surface burner switch (controls heat level)
Varies by model — check model number. Refer to OEM service sheet for exact matchTerminal block / power harness (incoming power connection)
Varies by model — check model number. Example/common number: 5303935092 (used on many Whirlpool-baseIgniter (spark or glow type) for gas ranges
Varies by model — requires exact model lookup; replace only after confirming lack of gas flowMain gas valve / safety valve (if burner gets no gas)
Varies by model — typically a non-electrical part; replace or clean before replacing other partsBurner head/cap (cleaning or replacement for clogged ports)
Pro tip incoming! 🧠

Helpful Repair Tip

Quick confirm: on electric ranges swap the non-working element with a working one of the same size — if the new element heats, the original element is bad; if the problem stays at the same cooktop location, test the infinite switch and terminal block with a multimeter for continuity.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I replace the part myself?

Yes for many common failures you can DIY: replacing an electric coil element, swapping an element with another to test, or replacing a surface/infinite switch is straightforward if you can disconnect power and follow disassembly steps. For gas components (igniter, valve) many DIYers can replace an igniter, but if you suspect a gas valve or can't confirm gas flow, hire a qualified technician because of gas safety risks.

Why does only one burner fail while the others work?

If only one burner fails, the problem is usually localized to that burner’s component (element, switch, igniter, or clogged burner ports) or to that burner’s wiring/terminal. A range-wide power or control board failure would typically affect multiple burners. Localized failures are easier to isolate by swapping parts (electric) or observing ignition behavior (gas).

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