Burner on Range Won't Heat – How to Diagnose and What Part Fixes It
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Understanding the Problem
When one burner on a range stops heating, it can be caused by different failures depending on whether the range is electric (coil or smooth-top) or gas. On electric ranges the usual culprits are a failed surface element (coil or radiant element), a bad infinite/control switch, a faulty receptacle/terminal block, or damaged wiring. On gas ranges the issue is usually a bad igniter/spark module, a clogged burner orifice/ports, or a faulty safety/gas valve. Diagnosing the problem starts with isolating the burner: swap a known-good element or burner cap to the affected position and test. Visual inspection (broken coil, cracked glass, misaligned gas cap) and simple continuity checks with a multimeter often identify the failed part. If basic checks are inconclusive, the failure is commonly in the control switch, wiring, or the gas ignition/valve assembly and may require replacement or professional service.
Common Symptoms
One burner produces no heat or very little heat, element does not glow (electric), continuous clicking or no spark (gas), control knob feels hot or loose, or the problem remains with a burner position after swapping elements.
Common Causes
- Failed heating component: burned-out surface element (electric) or faulty igniter/spark module (gas).
- Defective control: bad infinite/control switch (electric) or stuck/failing safety/gas valve (gas).
- Electrical or fuel delivery issues: damaged terminal block/wiring, loose connections, or clogged burner ports/gas supply blockage.
Popular Parts That Fix This Problem
These are the most common replacement parts that fix this problem. When you're ready to order, click below to find the right part at PartsDiscount.com — just search by your appliance model number for a guaranteed fit.
Helpful Repair Tip
For electric ranges, swap the suspected coil/radiant element with a known-working burner of the same size. If the problem moves with the element, replace the element; if it stays with the control, test/replace the infinite switch. For gas ranges, swap burner caps and check if another burner lights; if not, test the igniter for a steady glow or clicking and check for clogged ports.
Frequently Asked Questions
How can I tell if the element or the control switch is bad on my electric range?
First, swap the suspect element with a known-working element of the same size. If the heat problem moves with the element, the element is bad and should be replaced. If the problem stays with the burner position after swapping elements, the infinite/control switch, receptacle, or wiring is likely at fault. You can further confirm with a multimeter: the element should show continuity; the infinite switch should show continuity in some selector positions (power off and disconnect first). If you're not comfortable working with live mains voltage, call a technician.
My gas burner clicks but won't light — what should I check?
If you hear clicking but the burner won't light, first make sure the burner cap is seated correctly and that the burner ports are clean. A weak or intermittent spark/igniter, or a clogged orifice, can prevent ignition. If the igniter does not glow or spark consistently, or if cleaning the ports doesn't help, the igniter/spark module or gas valve may need replacement. Also confirm the gas supply is on. Because gas work can be hazardous, call a qualified service tech if you're unsure.
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