Noisy Amana NTW4516FW4 Washer — What Part Fixes This? (W10721967 Splutch)
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Understanding the Problem
Brief: Many Amana/Whirlpool top-load washers (including NTW4516FW4) develop loud grinding, squealing, or scraping noises during spin or heavy agitation. A common cause is failure of the 'splutch' (shift/clutch assembly) — part number W10721967 — which engages/disengages the transmission during wash and spin and can wear, crack, or lose its friction surface. Step-by-step diagnostic and repair steps: 1) Reproduce and localize the noise - Run a short spin and an agitation cycle separately with an empty tub. Note when the noise occurs: during agitation, during spin, or both. If the noise is only during spin or when the washer shifts from agitate to spin, suspect the splutch/clutch. - Use a cardboard tube or a long screwdriver (handle) held to your ear and the washer cabinet to help localize whether noise comes from the transmission area (bottom/center) or the agitator/upper tub. 2) Inspect easy items first - Check for loose items in the tub, between tubs, or trapped under the agitator. Remove the agitator and inspect for broken agitator dogs or cogs (small plastic one-way clutch pieces). These make noise during agitation but are distinct from splutch noise. - Inspect the underside of the cabinet for loose counterweights, loose motor mounting, or worn motor coupling. 3) Confirm splutch as likely cause - If the noise is mechanical grinding/squeal and is strongest during spin and when the machine changes speed/engages, the splutch (W10721967) is a prime suspect. A defective splutch will slip, chatter, or make a harsh grinding sound when trying to engage the transmission for spin. 4) Prepare to replace the splutch (what you’ll need) - Parts: Splutch kit W10721967. Tools: socket set, nut drivers, pliers, flat screwdriver, adjustable wrench, work gloves, shop towel, possible gear puller (rare). A rag to protect finishes and a camera or phone to take reference photos on disassembly. 5) Basic removal and replacement steps (high-level) - Safety first: Unplug the washer and turn off water. Work on a dry, flat surface. Remove clothing and jewelry. - Access the cabinet: For this model, tip the cabinet back or remove the top and/or front access panel per model service manual to get to the basket/agitator area and the gearcase top. (Some models require removing the entire cabinet by releasing retaining clips beneath the control panel.) - Remove the agitator: Take out the fabric softener cup (if present), remove the agitator cap, then the retaining bolt(s) securing the agitator to the basket. Pull the agitator up and out. - Remove the washer basket or access washplate: Depending on exact design, you may need to remove the basket or washplate to reach the splutch assembly which sits at the bottom of the tub on top of the transmission/gearcase. - Remove the old splutch: Loosen and remove the fasteners holding the clutch/splutch to the basket/gearcase. Pull the splutch assembly off—note orientation and any shims or clips. Inspect mating surfaces and the top of the gearcase for wear. - Install the new splutch (W10721967): Align and seat the new splutch in the same orientation, reinstall any clips/shims, and tighten fasteners to spec (hand-snug then torque per spec if available). - Reassemble: Replace the basket/washplate, reinstall the agitator and bolt, reattach panels and control components, restore water and power. - Test: Run an empty wash, then a spin cycle. Verify noise is gone and the machine shifts properly between agitate and spin. 6) When to call a pro - If the gearcase shows damage, heavy metal shavings, or the transmission leaks oil, you’ll likely need a gearcase replacement or a professional gearbox rebuild. If you’re uncomfortable dropping the cabinet or separating the basket frequently, call a technician. Safety note: Always unplug the washer before any disassembly. The gearcase and splutch can be heavy and spring-loaded in places—use proper lifting technique and keep hands clear of pinch points. If you’re unsure, hire a qualified appliance technician.
Common Symptoms
Loud grinding or squealing during spin or shift to spin, rattling from the bottom center of the washer, washer stalls or slips when trying to reach spin speed.
Common Causes
- Worn or damaged splutch (shift/clutch assembly) W10721967
- Broken agitator dogs or internal clutch components
- Damaged gearcase or transmission wear (bearing/gear damage)
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Helpful Repair Tip
To confirm the splutch, run an empty spin cycle and listen: splutch problems make loud grinding or a chattering that starts when the machine shifts to spin. If the noise only appears when shifting speeds, it’s very likely the W10721967 splutch.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take to replace the splutch (W10721967)?
A competent DIYer with basic tools can do the job in 1–2 hours from start to finish (including diagnosis and testing). If you need to remove the cabinet and basket, allow extra time. A professional tech typically completes it in about an hour.
Can I keep using the washer until I replace the splutch?
You can run the washer for a short time, but continued use risks further damage to the gearcase and other components. If you hear grinding, stop using the machine and replace the splutch soon to avoid a more expensive gearbox repair.
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