79640512900 Bearing Replacement – How to Replace the Washer Drum Bearing
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Understanding the Problem
What this part is and why it matters: Part number 79640512900 is sold as a drum bearing / bearing & seal kit used on some front‑load washing machines (Whirlpool/Maytag/Kenmore family models and similar). The drum bearing supports the inner tub during spin and keeps the drum centered; the seal prevents wash water from entering the bearing. When the bearing or seal fails you’ll hear loud noises, feel excessive drum play, or see leaks. Diagnostic and repair steps (practical how‑to): 1) Confirm the part: look up your washer model number (usually on the door jamb or behind the lower access panel) and verify 79640512900 in the OEM parts diagram before ordering. If you have a parts sheet, confirm whether 79640512900 replaces a single bearing, a bearing/seal pair, or the entire hub assembly. 2) Basic diagnostics: a. Run an empty spin and listen for rumbling/grinding or metal‑on‑metal noises. b. Grab the drum (both sides) and check for radial (up/down) and axial (in/out) play — >1/4" play is bad. c. Inspect the rear of the cabinet for oil/water leakage. 3) Gather tools and parts: socket set, Torx or Phillips drivers (model dependent), flat screwdriver/pry bar, snap ring pliers, bearing puller or slide hammer, hammer and bearing driver set or arbor press, penetrating oil, shop towels, new bearing/seal kit (79640512900), and optional new tub bolts/gaskets. 4) Safety prep: unplug the washer, shut off water, and move it to a clear workspace. Wear gloves and safety glasses. Support the drum/tub when removing suspension parts — it’s heavy. 5) Disassembly (general front‑load sequence): a. Remove top and/or control panel to access front panel fasteners (procedure varies by model). b. Open the door, remove the front door boot clamp, and peel the door seal back to access the inner tub bolts. c. Remove the front panel and any splash/drive components (motor, belt, idler) as needed to free the drum. Disconnect wiring harnesses and hoses carefully. d. Support and remove the inner tub from the outer tub. Often you’ll remove the drive pulley (rear) and then slide the inner drum out; on some models you remove outer tub bolts to access the bearing housing. 6) Remove the old bearing and seal: a. Remove any retaining rings or snap rings holding the bearing in place. b. Use a bearing puller or slide hammer to extract the worn bearing from the hub. Penetrating oil and gentle heat can help; avoid prying on the cast hub lip which can crack. c. Press or pry out the old seal (be careful not to score the hub bore). 7) Clean and inspect: a. Thoroughly clean the bearing bore/hub and inspect for pitting, scoring, or cracks. If the hub bore is excessively damaged, replacing the entire tub or hub assembly is recommended instead of only the bearing. 8) Install new bearing and seal (how to): a. Use an arbor press or bearing driver set to press the new bearing straight into the hub bore — press only on the bearing outer race. Press to the same depth as original. b. Install the new seal with a seal driver so it seats flush and square. Do not hammer the seal directly on the lip. c. Reinstall any snap rings or retaining hardware. 9) Reassemble the washer in reverse order: a. Reinstall the inner tub, drive pulley/motor/belt, front panel, door seal and clamp, and any panels. Replace any worn gaskets or bolts. b. Reconnect hoses and wiring harnesses. Make sure door seal and clamps are seated correctly to avoid leaks. 10) Test the machine: a. Reconnect power and run a short rinse/spin (no clothes). Listen for noise, check for leaks, and observe drum rotation for wobble. b. Run a full cycle to confirm repairs hold under load. Safety note: The inner tub and bearings are heavy and the job often requires a bearing press. If you don’t have the proper tools (bearing puller/press) or aren’t comfortable supporting heavy components, consider a service call. Always unplug the machine before working on it and support the tub to prevent sudden drops.
Common Symptoms
Loud rumbling or grinding during spin, excessive drum wobble or play, metal‑on‑metal noises, leaking water from the rear of the washer, or clothes being damaged by a ragged edge at the drum hub.
Common Causes
- Normal wear of sealed bearings over time from load and use
- Seal failure allowing water into the bearing and causing corrosion
- Overloading the washer or foreign objects damaging the bearing surface
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Helpful Repair Tip
Before tearing the washer apart, verify the bearing by spinning the drum by hand and listening for a low, continuous rumble and checking for >1/4" play; also check the rear of the cabinet for oily leaks—those confirm a failed bearing/seal.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I replace the bearing myself or do I need a pro?
You can replace the bearing yourself if you have mechanical experience and access to a bearing puller/press or bearing driver set. The job requires substantial disassembly, careful handling of the heavy tub, and correct pressing of the new bearing to avoid damage. If you lack the proper tools or are uncomfortable with heavy lifting and precision pressing, hire a technician.
How much does bearing replacement usually cost?
The part (bearing/seal kit) typically costs modestly, but prices vary. Expect the part to cost from a modest amount up to a couple of hundred dollars depending on OEM vs aftermarket. Labor can be the larger portion — professional repair shops often charge 1.5–3 hours of labor plus diagnostic fees. If the hub/tub is damaged and must be replaced, parts and labor costs increase significantly.
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