11021352111 Lid Lock Bypass — How to Run Your Washer Safely Until the Part Arrives
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Understanding the Problem
What this part does: The lid lock assembly (part number 11021352111) locks the washer lid during certain cycles and tells the control board the lid is closed. When it fails the machine may not start, will not spin or drain, or will show lid-lock error codes. Below are step-by-step diagnostics, a temporary bypass method to get the washer running until the part arrives, and replacement guidance. 1) Confirm the problem (diagnostic steps) 1.1 Unplug the washer or switch off the breaker. Safety first. Photograph connectors so you can restore wiring correctly. 1.2 Run the washer’s diagnostic/service mode (if available) or a short cycle and note any error codes—common codes reference a lid lock or lid switch fault. 1.3 Inspect the lid lock assembly and connector for physical damage, corrosion, or loose wires. 1.4 With the machine unplugged, disconnect the lid lock harness and check for continuity across the lock switch contacts with a multimeter. When locked, the switch will typically close/contact; when unlocked it opens. If there is no expected continuity, the lock is likely failed. 1.5 Check the strike (the metal part on the lid that presses the switch) and lid alignment—sometimes the lock fails simply because the strike is missing or misaligned. 2) Temporary bypass (use only until part 11021352111 arrives) Important: This is a temporary workaround to let the washer start. It defeats a safety device. Do NOT leave the washer unattended, do not operate with the lid open, and remove the bypass and install the proper part as soon as it arrives. 2.1 Unplug the washer or turn off the breaker. 2.2 Access the lid lock harness: usually the lock is on the top front of the cabinet or under the console. Remove screws/clip to expose the connector. 2.3 Identify the lid-switch signal terminals. The correct pair to jumper is the two terminals that the control board reads as the 'lid closed' signal. Check the wiring diagram sticker (often behind the control console) or service manual to identify pins. If no diagram is available, you can use a multimeter: with the assembly unplugged, operate the lid (or press the lock actuator). The terminals that change continuity are your target. 2.4 Create a jumper: use a short piece of insulated wire with the insulation stripped about 1/4" at each end. You may prefer a small insulated alligator jumper. DO NOT use bare metal tools; ensure insulation to avoid shorting other pins. 2.5 With the harness disconnected, insert the jumper to connect the two lid-sense pins (or splice the two wires) so the control sees the lid as closed. Reconnect power and attempt to start a drain/spin cycle. If the washer starts, the bypass is working. 2.6 If the lock uses a multi-function electronic lock (3–4 wires: power, ground, lock/unlock signal), do NOT randomly short power to other wires. Only jumper the identified signal pins. If unsure, stop and wait for the part or call a technician. 2.7 Secure the jumper so it won’t fall into moving parts. Re-install any loose panels enough to prevent contact but leave it obvious you'll replace it as soon as the part arrives. 3) Replace the lid lock with part 11021352111 (when the part arrives) 3.1 Unplug the washer or turn the breaker off. 3.2 Remove the console/top per your model’s service instructions to access the lock assembly—usually screws or clips hold the top/console. 3.3 Disconnect the harness from the old lid lock and remove the mounting screws/clips holding the assembly. 3.4 Install new part 11021352111: fasten with screws/clips, connect the harness, and ensure the strike engages the lock properly with the lid closed. 3.5 Reassemble panels, restore power, and run a test cycle to confirm normal operation and no error codes. Safety note: Bypassing the lid lock defeats a safety mechanism designed to prevent injury from moving parts. Do not operate the washer with the lid open, keep children/pets away, and replace the OEM lid lock immediately when the part arrives.
Common Symptoms
Washer won't start, won't spin or drain, lid-lock or door error codes, lid-locked light stays on or flashing, audible click from lock but no mechanical engagement.
Common Causes
- Failed lid lock actuator or internal microswitch
- Damaged or corroded wiring/harness or connector
- Misaligned lid strike or broken catch preventing the lock from engaging
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Helpful Repair Tip
Use a multimeter to find which two terminals change continuity when the lock is engaged—jumper those two wires only. Take photos of connectors before you disconnect anything.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I run the washing machine with a jumper permanently instead of replacing the lid lock?
No. A jumper is only a temporary workaround. It defeats a safety device and can be dangerous—especially during spin cycles. Replace the OEM lid lock 11021352111 as soon as you receive it. Keep the machine supervised and never operate with the lid open while a bypass is in place.
How do I identify the correct pins to jumper on my washer?
Look for the washer’s wiring diagram (usually a sticker behind the control or console). If unavailable, use a multimeter on the disconnected lock harness and operate the lid or actuator: the pair of terminals that show continuity when the lid is closed (or that change state when you press the lock) are the ones to jumper. If you are not comfortable doing this, wait for the replacement part or contact a service technician.
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